How to Replace a 1992 Honda Civic CV Axle

The 1992 Honda civic base model came with a 1.5-liter in-line four-cylinder engine and a five-speed manual transmission. Whether you have the sedan or hatchback body style, your Civic is front wheel drive, which means power is transferred from the transmission to the front wheels by constant velocity axle shafts. Your CV shafts have two CV joints that allow the axles to deliver uninterrupted power to the front wheels when turning and going over bumps. The most common sign of an imminent failure is a distinctive clicking noise when cornering, often associated with the outermost CV joint. The entire shaft needs to be replaced anytime either joint begins to fail, and do to so, you will have to replace your transmission fluid.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be serviced with a lug wrench. Lift the front of the vehicle into the air with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front sub-frame rails. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands.

2

Place a drain pan under the transmission. Lay under the vehicle and examine the far passenger side of the transmission. Locate the transmission fill plug that is located just to the rear of the passenger side axle shaft and remove it with a socket and ratchet. Locate the transmission drain plug that is just below the axle shaft towards the bottom of the transmission, it will have a square 3/8-inch drive hole. Remove the drain plug with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and allow the transmission fluid to drain.

3

Clean the threads of the transmission drain plug with a wire brush and replace the sealing washer with a new one. Install the drain plug once the fluid has fully drained and tighten it snug with a 3/8-inch drive ratchet. Remove the drain pan and store the used fluid in a safe place until it can be disposed of properly.

4

Remove the lug nuts for the side of the vehicle to be service and then remove the wheel. Place a pointed chisel into the staked portion of the axle nut and axle and tap it with a hammer to unlock the axle nut. Instruct a helper to sit inside the vehicle and apply the brakes. Remove the axle nut with a 32 mm socket and breaker bar. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle.

5

Bend the lower ball joint cotter pin legs strait and remove the cotter pin with pliers. Remove the lower ball joint castle nut with a socket and ratchet. Separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm by prying between the control arm and steering knuckle with a pry bar. Use a ball joint separator to separate the ball joint, if the ball joint stud is seized to the control arm.

6

Remove the two nuts securing the front strut assembly to the steering knuckle with a socket and ratchet; use a wrench to hold the through bolts steady. Tap the strut through bolts out of the strut flanges and steering knuckle with a hammer and chisel.

7

Pull the hub and brake assembly towards the outside of the vehicle and pull the axle shaft out of the hub assembly. Use a small chisel and hammer to tap the axle shaft out of the hub, if the splines are seized together.

8

Place a pry bar between the inner-most axle tripod and the transmission case. Pry the axle shaft out of the transmission enough to separate the snap ring from the differential side gears. Pull the faulty axle shaft out of the transmission and remove it from under the vehicle.

9

Inspect the output shaft seal for any wear or damage and replace with a new seal, as necessary.

Installation

10

Inspect the new axle for proper length and spline count compared to the original axle. Inspect the transmission end of the new axle to ensure there is a new spring clip installed to the end of the shaft. Lift the axle shaft into position and spline it into the transmission. Forcibly push the axle shaft into place until the spring clip seats within the groves of the differential side gears; this can be verified by pulling outward on the axle shaft, as the shaft cannot be removed by hand when properly installed.

11

Spray a small amount of penetrating oil onto a wire brush and clean any corrosion or debris from the hub splines. Pull outward on the hub and brake assembly and line up the axle shaft splines with the hub splines. Push the axle shaft into the hub and press the hub towards its original position.

12

Pry down on the lower control arm and place the lower ball joint stud through the ball joint hole on the control arm. Install the lower ball joint castle nut hand tight. Install the new axle shaft nut hand tight.

13

Push the top of the steering knuckle into place between the lower strut mounting flanges and install the through bolts. Install the lower strut mounting nuts and tighten to 47 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the lower ball joint castle nut to 40 foot-pounds. Tighten the castle nut slightly to align the groves with the hole in the ball joint stud, if necessary. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud and bend the legs in opposite directions around the nut with pliers.

14

Instruct a helper to enter the vehicle and apply the brakes. Tighten the new axle shaft nut to 134 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and 32 mm socket. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle.

15

Lift the vehicle hood and support it with the hood prop rod. Install the transmission funnel into the transmission fill hole. Slowly add transmission fluid through the funnel into the transmission; total capacity is 1.85 quarts. Cease filling the transmission and remove the transmission funnel when transmission fluid begins to run out the fill hole. Clean the threads of the fill hole plug with a wire brush and replace the the sealing washer. Install the fill plug and tighten snug with a socket and ratchet.

16

Install the wheel and tire onto the vehicle and install the lug nuts hand tight. Lift the front of the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to 80 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

17

Drive the vehicle to a local repair shop to have the front end alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.