Brake lever setup tutorial EDIT
Not sure why the Blogger dashboard can't find this post and why it isn't showing up in the main BLOG, but you are able to link to it...
https://iskablogs.blogspot.com/2005/07/brake-lever-setup-tutorial-edit.html
Not sure why the Blogger dashboard can't find this post and why it isn't showing up in the main BLOG, but you are able to link to it directly.
Anyway. it is about setting up Brake levers:
Brake lever setup
There is one point that Guitar Ted pointed out that I failed to mention. That is modulation. Meaning that when you set the levers to engage closer to the bar, you have to make sure that they are not so close to the bar that they actually hit the bar. When they hit the bar you obviously have no more pull on the lever and can't get any braking power.
Ideally you want the levers to engage well before the bar and allow enough additional movement to really apply power to the brakes. And where the absolute maximum lever travel still leaves room before the lever hits the bar.
Keep in mind that through the course of even one wet/gritty ride, cantilever and Vbrake pads can wear so much that you will need to dial out your barrel adjuster otherwise you'll go to grab some brake and it will hit the bars and you won't be able to stop.
Brakes have different modulation capabilities. There is a great cantilever setup article that was written by Keith Bontrager. In his setup the last part of the brake lever travel felt mushy. That mush was pure power where the brake pads were deforming against the rim. Some brakes feel like on/off buttons. The Avid Juicy 7s I just got have wonderful modulation with a little spongy movement right after the pads hit the rotor.
Brake lever setup
Anyway. it is about setting up Brake levers:
Brake lever setup
There is one point that Guitar Ted pointed out that I failed to mention. That is modulation. Meaning that when you set the levers to engage closer to the bar, you have to make sure that they are not so close to the bar that they actually hit the bar. When they hit the bar you obviously have no more pull on the lever and can't get any braking power.
Ideally you want the levers to engage well before the bar and allow enough additional movement to really apply power to the brakes. And where the absolute maximum lever travel still leaves room before the lever hits the bar.
Keep in mind that through the course of even one wet/gritty ride, cantilever and Vbrake pads can wear so much that you will need to dial out your barrel adjuster otherwise you'll go to grab some brake and it will hit the bars and you won't be able to stop.
Brakes have different modulation capabilities. There is a great cantilever setup article that was written by Keith Bontrager. In his setup the last part of the brake lever travel felt mushy. That mush was pure power where the brake pads were deforming against the rim. Some brakes feel like on/off buttons. The Avid Juicy 7s I just got have wonderful modulation with a little spongy movement right after the pads hit the rotor.
Brake lever setup
