How to Remove the Water Pump From an '88 Civic

The good news is that Honda's D-series motor does have a water pump -- but it's all kind of downhill from there. For reasons known only to the manufacturers, Honda chose to hide the D-series' water pump behind the engine's timing set. While this can pose a problem during installation, you'll have the biggest paranoia after you get the water pump installed -- when you have to reassemble half the engine before you find out whether or not it leaks. But at least you've still got your health.

Instructions

1

Jack up the front of the car, install jack stands under the body and remove the left front wheel. While you're under there, slide a jack stand or a set of blocks tightly under the motor, with a block between the jack stand and the oil pan if you're using a jack stand. You'll be removing one of the engine mounts later. Remove the four bolts from the splash shield around the wheel well to access the crankshaft.

2

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Loosen the through-bolt on the alternator and adjust it inward to remove the belt. Remove the AC/power steering belt adjustment pulley, and pull the belt off with it. Unbolt the power steering pump and set it off to the side, then unbolt the power steering bracket from the left front side of the block.

3

Remove the vertical 10 mm nut and bolt on the upper engine support where it connects to the engine, then remove the mount through-bolt and the mount itself. Remove the valve cover to expose the camshaft.

4

Rotate the crankshaft until the "TDC" mark on the crankshaft lines up with the timing pointer on the engine block. Look at the valves on the number one cylinder, the one closest to the front of the engine where you're working. Both valves should be up and in the closed position. Do not rotate the crankshaft after this point.

5

Remove the crankshaft center pulley; you may want to use an impact wrench for removal, since it'll reduce the odds of accidentally turning the crankshaft. Slide the pulley off the crankshaft, then remove the upper and lower timing cover bolts and the timing covers themselves.

6

Loosen the adjustment bolt in the center of the timing belt tensioner just above the crankshaft. Check for the "up" mark on the cam sprocket and the two reference marks. The "up" mark should be perfectly vertical to the center bolt, and the two reference marks on either side should line up with the top edges of the cylinder head. The crankshaft should still be at TDC or "zero degrees."

7

Remove the lower radiator hose from the radiator and drain the fluid into a catch pan. Here comes the easy part: Remove the four 6 mm bolts that secure the water pump to the block, as well as the single 10 mm bolt that runs through the alternator bracket and water pump. Thoroughly clean the block with a degreasing agent. An absolutely clean mating surface and new O-ring are crucial to ensure against the leaks you'll find only after you get everything put back together.

8

Install the new O-ring and water pump, and torque the 6 mm bolts to 5 foot-pounds in a crisscross pattern. Re-torque them all to 9 foot-pounds in the same pattern. This two-step process isn't really required, but it helps ward off leaks.

9

Inspect the timing belt for cracks and splits, and look closely around the rounded teeth for excess wear. If the belt looks even slightly worn, then it's cheap insurance to replace it now. Slide the timing belt back on, and triple-check that the crank is at TDC and the cam sprocket reference marks line up with the top of the head. Temporarily tighten the adjustment bolt on the tensioner to 33 foot-pounds.

10

Install the rubber seals on your lower timing cover, and install the cover itself; the bolts get 7 foot-pounds of torque. Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt to 83 foot-pounds. At this point, it doesn't matter if you turn the crank a little since you're about to turn it anyway. Reset the crank at TDC, then loosen the tensioner adjuster bolt through the timing cover. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise by three teeth on the cam sprocket to tension the belt.

11

Torque the adjustment bolt to 33 foot pounds, and tighten the crank bolt to 83 foot-pounds if it broke loose while turning the crankshaft. Install the upper timing belt cover and rubber seal, and torque the bolts to 7 foot-pounds. Reinstall the valve cover with a new gasket, and torque the bolts to 7 foot-pounds.

12

Put the engine mount back on, tightening all fasteners to 40 foot-pounds. Torque the power steering bracket bolts and lower alternator bolt to 33 foot-pounds, and the upper adjustment bolt to 17 foot-pounds after you get the belt installed. Install the 8 mm power steering pump bolts using 17 foot-pounds, bolt the pulley back onto the pump, and reinstall the pump belt and pulley bracket.

13

Check the belt tension. Reconnect the lower radiator hose, then refill the engine with a 50/50 mix of water and coolant. Open the coolant bleed bolt on the engine block, right between the back of the valve cover and the throttle body.

14

Connect the negative battery cable and start the engine. Check for leaks, listen for bad sounds, refill the radiator as necessary, then close the bleed bolt when it stops taking fluid. Check the ignition timing and adjust as necessary. Reinstall the splash shield and wheel, lower the car to the ground, and treat yourself to something frosty.