How to Replace the Rear Wheel Bearing on a 1995 Jimmy

Replacing a rear wheel bearing in a 1995 GMC Jimmy is a challenging process. The axle bearings are pressed into the outer axle housing. The differential carrier must be partially disassembled to free the axles from the carrier in order to access them. A special tool is necessary to extract the bearings from inside the axle tube. If the wheel bearing has damaged the bearing contact surface on the axle, an axle saver bearing can be purchased that moves the bearing outward so it rides on a different position on the axle.

Instructions

1

Block the front wheels. Place the transmission in neutral. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a socket. Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts a half-turn with the lug wrench. Raise the rear of the truck by the differential carrier and place a jack stand under each axle tube. Lower the truck so that it rests on the stands. Continue removing the lug nuts and wheel.

2

Remove the rear brake drum by tapping it between the wheel studs with a hammer to break it loose from the hub. Place a drain pan under the differential and remove all of the 13 mm bolts in the differential cover, using a socket and ratchet. Pry the cover off slowly and allow the gear oil to drain into the pan.

3

Turn the differential carrier by the axle hub until the spider gear center pin end with the retaining bolt is facing you. Rotate the carrier until it appears that the center pin will have just enough room to slide out without hitting the bottom of the housing. This will allow enough room to get inside to remove the axle retaining C-clips.

4

Remove the retaining bolt using a socket and ratchet. When the bolt is removed, the center pin may slide out and fall, so prepare to grab it. Remove it and lay it on a clean rag. Do not rotate the differential with the pin out, or the spider gears will rotate and fall out. They are difficult to install for a beginner.

5

Push the axle or axles in from the hub as far as they will go. With the magnet, reach in the opening in the carrier and withdraw the thick axle-retaining C-clips from the end grooves in the axles.

6

Pull the axle out of the axle carrier and tube. Stand it up on the wheel studs. Install the center pin and loosely thread in the retainer bolt to secure the pin. Now the spider gears are safe from falling out.

7

Pull the outer oil seal from the axle housing with the seal remover. Insert the slide hammer axle bearing remover attachment in the axle tube and through the axle-bearing center. As the slide hammer is pulled outward, the attachment will open. Grab the rear of the bearing. Use the slide hammer to pull the bearing from the tube.

8

Insert the new bearing as far as possible perfectly straight. Use the old bearing as an installer. Place the old bearing atop the new bearing. With the hammer, hit the old bearing at four points on a compass to drive the new bearing into the axle tube. Continue to drive it in until the sound changes to a thud, indicating it has completely seated. Remove and discard the old bearing.

9

Install the oil seal by tapping it around the outside edges to drive it in flush with the end of the tube. Remove the center pin retainer and the center pin. Insert the axle into the axle tube carefully, guiding it through the new bearing. Push it slowly all the way in until it contacts the carrier. It will be necessary to hold the axle hub and maneuver the inside end around to locate the hole in the carrier. Once the axle begins to slide into the hole in the carrier, push it all the way in.

10

Insert the C-clip axle retainer into the groove on the inside end of the axle. Roll the C-clip so the open end is down, preventing the clip from falling off when released. Immediately pull the axle outward away from the carrier. This will cause the C-clip to be drawn into a cavity in the carrier, from which the clip hasnt room to fall out. If both axles received new bearings, do the same for the opposite side.

11

Install the center pin and torque the retainer bolt to 27 foot-pounds. Hold the differential cover over the drain pan and clean it of all remaining gasket material and oil with the can of brake cleaner. Wipe it off with a rag when finished.

12

Lay a quarter-inch line of RTV sealant in a continuous bead around the mating surface of the cover. Place sealant around the bolt holes as well. Do not make it thick or it will be squeezed out when the cover is installed. Allow the RTV to set until it has skinned, meaning that the RTV does not stick to your finger when it is touched gently. This is the time to install it. The time to set varies from two to seven minutes.

13

Install the cover and torque the bolts in a staggered sequence to 20 foot-pounds. Install the brake drum. Remove the filler plug on the front side of the differential carrier, using a wrench.

14

Fill the differential with 80/90W gear oil through the filler hole. The differential is full when the oil level is level with the filler hole and any additional oil just runs out of the hole. Install the filler plug and tighten it down with the wrench until it has good resistance to turning. Do not overtighten or it will not come out next time.

15

Install the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds. Raise the differential and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck.