How to Change the Front Rotors on a 2003 Ranger

The decision to machine or replace the front rotors on a 2003 Ford Ranger is based upon the minimum thickness of the rotor. Thickness is the main factor relating to the rotor's ability to dissipate heat and prevent warping as a result. This is a safety factor, taking into consideration the over-extension of the caliper piston. If the piston over-extends, it risks the chance of cocking in its bore, causing a rapid depressurization of the system, which will result in loss of braking on two wheels. It is highly recommended that the brake pads be replaced at the time of rotor replacement, due to uneven wear on the pads.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels, using a lug wrench. Turn the lug nuts counterclockwise one complete turn; this makes them easier to remove when the wheel is elevated. Raise the truck with the floor jack and place jack stands under the frame, just behind the front wheels. Lower the truck so that it rests safely on the stands. Continue removing the lug nuts on the front wheels. Remove the wheels.

2

Loosen the caliper bleeder screw on the top inside of the caliper, using a wrench. Insert a common screwdriver between the inside brake pad and the rotor. Pry the inside brake pad away from the rotor; this, in turn, will force the piston back into the caliper. Close the bleeder screw and snug it down without over-tightening; it is hollow and will break with too much torque.

3

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts, using a wrench. Lift the caliper off the rotor and suspend the caliper from the coil spring, using a suitable piece of wire. Pull the brake pads out of the caliper-mounting bracket, which extends over the rotor.

4

Remove the two bolts securing the caliper-mounting bracket to the knuckle, using a socket and ratchet. Remove the bracket. Remove the grease cap, using the tool for this purpose. Straighten and remove the cotter pin in the nose of the spindle, using a wire cutter. Remove the castle-lock washer.

5

Remove the large spindle nut, using the adjustable wrench. Wobble the rotor with one hand, while placing the other hand under the front of the hub. The large washer and the outside thrust bearing will fall out of the rotor. Lay them on a clean rag.

6

Reinstall the spindle nut by threading it on the spindle shaft a few turns. Grasp the rotor with both hands, and with a slight downward pressure quickly yank the rotor off the spindle; the rear bearing and seal will be left hanging on the spindle. Remove the spindle nut.

7

Lay the new rotor with the small bearing opening facing down. Pack the two wheel bearings with grease. Place some grease in the palm of your hand and with the wide diameter of the bearing down, scrape the grease in your hand into the bearing. Rotate the bearing until all the bearings are covered in grease.

8

Place the large bearing into rear of the rotor, followed by the grease seal. Tap the seal home with a hammer until it is flush with the top of the hub. Turn the rotor over and slide it on the spindle. Install the smaller thrust bearing, the large washer and the spindle nut.

9

Tighten the spindle nut with the adjustable wrench until you feel a considerable resistance. Rotate the rotor a few times, seating the bearings. Back the spindle nut off one complete turn and rotate the rotor. Tighten the spindle nut again until considerable resistance is felt, and back the nut off -turn. The bearings are now seated and have enough room to expand. The spindle nut should never be tight, or the bearings will lock up when hot.

10

Install the castle-nut lock washer and the cotter pin. Install the grease cap and tap it on with the hammer. Install the caliper-mounting bracket and tighten the two bolts to 85 foot-pounds of torque. Check the anti-rattle spring clips on both ends of the bracket, where the pads are being installed; make sure they are in place. Install the brake pads between the spring clips. Squeeze the brake pads against the rotor with your hand.

11

Lower the caliper over the rotor and install both caliper-mounting bolts. Tighten these bolts to 38 foot-pounds of torque. Install the wheel and the lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts to the point they are all in contact with the wheel. Lower the truck and tighten the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds of torque.

12

Raise the hood and remove the cap on the brake master cylinder. Fill the master cylinder to the maximum mark and replace the cap. Start the truck and pump the brakes slowly 10 times before attempting to move the vehicle.