How to Replace a Wheel Bearing on a 2008 Ford F-150

The F-series has been part of Fords lineup since the release of the F-1, F-2 and F-3 in 1948. The F-150 made its debut in 1975 and almost immediately became the best-selling pickup in the lineup. The 2008 F-150 came in five trim levels: XL, STX, XLT, Lariat and FX4. The base configuration of the F-150 was the XL trim level with a 202-horsepower, 4.2-liter V-6 engine and rear-wheel drive. The only wheel bearings on the pickup are at the front, as the rear end uses the axle bearings to lower the friction caused by constant rotation. The front wheel bearings on the 2008 F-150 are an interesting lot, as Ford integrated them with the rotor, which means you must replace the rotor in order to replace the bearing.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel with the failed bearing by using a ratchet and socket. Raise the front of the F-150 with a floor jack and position jack stands under the frame rails. Lower the pickup onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the truck.

2

Remove the two caliper bolts by using a ratchet and socket, and pull the caliper upward off its bracket. Hang the caliper from a nearby suspension component with a bungee cord. Pull the brake pads from the caliper bracket.

3

Unfasten the two caliper bracket bolts by using a ratchet and socket, then pull the caliper bracket from the front spindle assembly.

4

Pull the cotter pin from the spindle shaft with needle-nose pliers and pull the castellated spindle nut retainer from the spindle shaft. Remove the spindle nut by using a ratchet and socket. This nut is rather tight, so you may need to substitute a breaker bar in place of the ratchet. Pull the hub-and-rotor assembly off the spindle shaft.

5

Slide a new hub-and-rotor assembly onto the spindle shaft and hand-thread a new spindle nut onto the spindle shaft. Tighten the spindle nut to 296 foot-pounds by using a torque wrench and socket. Slide the castellated spindle nut retainer onto the spindle and over the spindle nut, so one of the valleys in its castellated top aligns with the hole through the spindle shaft. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle shaft and use needle-nose pliers to bend its legs in opposite directions and lock it into place.

6

Position a drain pan under the caliper. Set a 4-inch-long 2-by-4-inch block of wood into the caliper, so it contacts the two pistons inside the caliper. Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper so its screw part contacts the wood and its fixed side contacts the rear of the caliper.

7

Open the calipers bleeder valve the -inch metal valve on the rear of the caliper by turning it counterclockwise using a combination wrench, then tighten the C-clamp until the caliper pistons insert fully into the bore of the caliper. Immediately tighten the bleeder valve by using a combination wrench.

8

Install the caliper bracket onto the front spindle assembly and hand-thread its retaining bolts. Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 148 foot-pounds by using a torque wrench and socket. Slide the brake pads into the caliper bracket and set the caliper on its bracket. Thread the caliper bolts by hand, then torque them to 55 foot-pounds.

9

Reinstall the wheel onto the hub and hand-tighten its lug nuts. Raise the F-150 off the jack stands by using a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground and tighten the lug nuts to 150 foot-pounds, using a crisscross pattern.

10

Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm, then check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If the fluid level is not between the Min and Max lines on the master cylinder reservoir, unscrew the cap and add fresh DOT 3 brake fluid until it reaches the midway point between the two lines.

11

Take the old brake fluid in the drain pan to a local automotive fluid recycling center for disposal. Some auto parts stores take old brake fluid free of charge.