How to Install the Front Wheel Bearing in a 94 Nissan Sentra

The 1994 model year was the final one for the classic box-style Nissan Sentra, as the automaker released a new, shapelier Sentra in 1995. A set of wheel bearings keep the front wheels spinning with a minimal amount of resistance. Over time, the ball bearings inside the wheel bearing assembly begin wearing out and cause looseness. If left unattended, these bearings can fail completely, causing a metal-on-metal grind-fest that may cause significant damage to other components. Replacing the wheel bearings on the 1994 Sentra is a rather detailed process, but completing it yourself can save you money.

Instructions

Hub and Knuckle Removal

1

Loosen the front lug nuts with a ratchet and socket, and raise the front of the Sentra off the ground with a floor jack. Slide a set of jack stands under the Sentras subframe and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheels from the hubs.

2

Tell an assistant to press and hold the brake pedal as you remove the axle nut on the side with the failed wheel bearing, using a ratchet and socket. Instruct the assistant to release the brakes.

3

Remove the caliper bolts with a ratchet and socket, and pull the caliper from its bracket. Hang the caliper from a nearby suspension component with a bungee strap. Pull the brake pads from the caliper bracket, remove the two caliper bracket bolts with a ratchet and socket, and remove the caliper bracket. Pull the brake rotor from the hub. If the rotor doesnt pull of easily, lightly hit the rear of it with a rubber mallet to break it loose.

4

Pull the cotter pin from the tie rod end stud with needle-nose pliers, then remove the castellated nut with a ratchet and socket. Set up a tie rod end separator with its screw part contacting the tie rod end stud and its claws wrapping around the steering knuckle. Tighten the tie rod end separator until the tie rod end pops out of the steering knuckle.

5

Unfasten the strut-to-steering knuckle nuts, using a ratchet and socket, as you hold each nuts respective bolt with a combination wrench.

6

Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud with needle-nose pliers and remove the castellated ball joint nut with a ratchet and socket. Position a ball joint separator so its screw part contacts the end of the ball joint stud and its claws wrap around the steering knuckle. Tighten the ball joint separator until the ball joint pops out of the steering knuckle.

7

Set a jack stand under the CV axle so it keeps it straight, even after removing the steering knuckle. Disengage the CV axle from the steering knuckle. Hold the steering knuckle in one hand and strike the outer end of the CV axle with a rubber mallet until it is free from the steering knuckle. Remove the steering knuckle.

Wheel Bearing Removal

8

Position the steering knuckle in a bench vise, with the lower ball joint facing up, and tighten the vise to secure the knuckle.

9

Select a bearing driver that matches the circumference of the inner wheel bearing race. Position the selected race, so it contacts the inner race and the wheel hub. Strike the bearing driver with a hammer to drive the inner race and hub out of the steering knuckle.

10

Pry the inner and outer grease seals from the steering knuckle, using a grease seal puller.

11

Using snap-ring pliers, compress the snap ring inside the outer part of the steering knuckle. Select a bearing driver that closely matches the circumference of the wheel bearing assembly. Position the bearing driver on the wheel bearing and strike the bearing driver with a hammer until the bearing falls from the steering knuckle.

12

Remove the knuckle from the vise.

Wheel Bearing Installation

13

Position the steering knuckle in an arbor press, with its outer part facing up.

14

Thoroughly clean the hole inside the spindle, where the bearing seats, with parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free cloth. Do not apply any grease to the bearing or the inside of the steering knuckle. The bearing is permanently greased and sealed, and extra grease may cause damage.

15

Press the wheel bearing into the outer part of the steering knuckle as far as you can by hand. Position the bearing driver that matches the circumference of the outer bearing race and drive the wheel bearing into the steering knuckle, using the bearing driver and the arbor press, until the bearing is just past the snap ring groove.

16

Compress the snap ring with snap-ring pliers and insert it into the steering knuckle, aligning it with the groove in the knuckle. Open the snap-ring pliers to allow the snap ring to seat in the groove.

17

Set the new outer grease seal over the wheel bearing and drive it in using the bearing drive you used to drive in the wheel bearing and a hammer. Flip the knuckle over and repeat this step for the new inner grease seal.

18

Reposition the knuckle on the arbor press, so its outer part faces up. Line up the inner part of the wheel hub with the hole in the center of the wheel bearing assembly, and press the wheel hub into the bearing, using the largest bearing driver thatll fit on it, until it seats inside the bearing.

19

Remove the steering knuckle from the arbor press.

Hub and Knuckle Installation

20

Guide the outer end of the CV axle into the center of the steering knuckle and hand-thread the axle nut. Insert the lower ball joint stud through its hole in the bottom of the steering knuckle and hand-thread its castellated nut. Guide the tie rod end stud through the hole in the top of the steering knuckle and hand-thread its nut.

21

Tighten the ball joint nut to between 44 and 55 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench. Verify that a low spot in its castellated nut aligns with the hole through its stud. If they do not line up, slightly tighten the ball joint nut until they do line up. Press a new cotter pin through the hole in+ the ball joint stud and bend its legs in opposite directions, using needle-nose pliers, to lock it into place.

22

Torque the tie rod end nut to between 19 and 21 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket. Verify that a valley in the castellated nut aligns with the hole through the tie rod end stud. If they do not align, tighten the castellated nut until they do line up. Press a new cotter pin through the hole in the stud and bend its legs with needle-nose pliers to lock it into place.

23

Press the lower strut mount onto the steering knuckle, lining up its bolt holes with those on the steering knuckle. Insert the lower strut bolts through their holes and thread the nuts onto the bolts. Tighten the nuts to between 84 and 98 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket, while holding the bolts from turning, using a combination wrench.

24

Slide the rotor back onto the hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket onto the steering knuckle and hand-thread its bolts. Torque the caliper bracket bolts to between 40 and 47 foot-pounds. Slide the brake pads into the caliper bracket.

25

Remove the caliper from the bungee strap and hand-thread the caliper bolts. If the Sentra is the SE-R trim level, tighten the caliper bolts to between 23 and 30 foot-pounds. For all other trim levels, tighten the caliper bolts to between 16 and 23 foot-pounds.

26

Instruct your assistant to press and hold the brake pedal, as you tighten the axle nut to between 145 and 203 foot-pounds. Reinstall the front wheels on the Sentras front hubs and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the vehicle off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the Sentra to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to between 72 and 87 foot-pounds.