Tricks for Axle Removal on a 1998 Dodge Caravan

The 1998 Dodge Caravan base model came with a 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine and a three-speed automatic transmission. The constant velocity or CV axles that transfer power from your transmission to the front wheels act as bolts that secure the wheel hub to the steering knuckle. The inner portion of each axle is secured to the transmission by a circlip that rests inside a groove that is machined into the differential side gears. Removing either axle is an in depth job, but is well within the ability of the everyday home mechanic. Once either axle shaft has been replaced, you will need to have a front end alignment performed at a local repair facility.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. Pry the hub cap away from the wheel to be serviced with a pry bar. Straighten the legs of the axle nut cotter pin and remove it with pliers. Remove the axle nut cover. Instruct a helper to enter the vehicle and apply the brakes. Loosen the axle nut with a 32 mm socket and breaker bar, but do not remove it. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle.

2

Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Lift the front of the van into the air with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front sub-frame. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands. Remove the wheel and tire.

3

Remove the caliper to steering knuckle guide pin bolts with a socket and ratchet. Pull the bottom of the caliper away from the brake rotor, and then slide the top of the caliper from under the steering knuckle. Hang the caliper from the suspension with mechanics wire, do not allow any pressure to be applied to the rubber brake hose.

4

Grab both sides of the brake rotor and slide it off of the wheel hub. Tap the rear of the brake rotor with a rubber mallet, if it is seized to the wheel hub. Remove the tie-rod end nut with a wrench while holding the tie-rod end stud steady with a 11/32-inch socket and ratchet. Install the tie-rod end separator between the tie-rod end base and the steering knuckle. Tighten the pivot arm bolt with a socket and ratchet until the tie-rod end is separated from the steering knuckle. Lift the tie-rod end out of the steering knuckle and remove the heat shield.

5

Straighten the legs of the lower ball joint cotter pin and remove it with pliers. Remove the lower ball joint castle nut with a box-end wrench. Turn the front of the steering knuckle as far outward as possible. Hit the ball joint boss with a hammer repeatedly until the ball joint separates from the steering knuckle; do not strike the lower control arm or ball joint boot.

6

Grasp the out CV joint firmly and pull outward on the steering knuckle. Pull the axle shaft out of the wheel hub, you may tap the axle shaft through the hub with a plastic hammer if necessary. Support the outer CV joint from the suspension with mechanics wire, if its not being replaced.

7

Place a pry bar between the transmission case and the inner CV joint. Carefully pry against the axle shaft with enough force to separate the circlip from the grooves of the differential side gear, but do not fully remove the shaft. Grab the inner joint by hand and slide it straight out of the transmission; be careful not to drag the circlip or splines across the side gears or oil seal. Remove the axle from under the vehicle.

8

Inspect the axle seal on the transmission for any wear or damage and replace it as necessary. Clean the mating surface on the rear of the wheel hub with a wire brush. If the axle is going to be reused cleaned the surface of the axle that contacts the rear of the wheel hub with a wire brush, so that both surfaces will be free of any contamination.

Installation

9

Proceed to step 2 if the axle shaft is being replaced with a new one. Pry the original circlip from the axle and dispose of it. Place one side of a new circlip into the circlip groove on the transmission side of the axle and work around the circlip and axle until the circlip is fully installed into the groove. Clean the splines on both sides of the axle shaft with a wire brush and lightly coat the splines and circlip with fresh automatic transmission fluid.

10

Slide the axle shaft assembly through the opening in the inner fender well and support the outer joint from the suspension with mechanics wire. Lubricate the axle seal on the transmission with fresh automatic transmission fluid. Slide the axle shaft into the transmission as far as possible by hand. Forcefully push the inner CV joint tripod into the transmission until the circlip properly engages the groove in the differential side gear. Pull outward on the inner CV joint by hand, if the axle is properly installed it will not remove from the transmission by hand.

11

Support the outer CV joint by hand and remove the mechanics wire. Pull outward on the steering knuckle assembly and guide the axle shaft into the wheel hub. The outer Joint bearing shield should make contact with the rear of the wheel hub. Pry downward on the lower control arm and guide the lower ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.

12

Install the lower ball joint castle nut and tighten to 70 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the nut slightly to align the grooves of the nut with the hole in the ball joint stud, if necessary. Push a new cotter pin through the castle nut and stud. Bend the legs of the cotter pin in opposite directions around the castle nut with pliers.

13

Set the tie-rod end heat shield into the bore on the steering knuckle. Place the tie-rod end stud through the steering knuckle and install a new nut hand tight. Tighten the tie-rod end nut to 45 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and crowfoot attachment while holding the stud steady with an 11/32-inch socket and ratchet.

14

Slide the rotor onto the wheel hub. Support the brake caliper by hand and remove the mechanics wire. Install the top of the caliper under the steering knuckle and then pivot the bottom of the caliper into position. Install the caliper to knuckle guide pin bolts and tighten to 23 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

15

Install a new axle shaft nut onto the axle shaft hand tight. Instruct a helper to enter the vehicle and apply the brakes. Tighten the new axle nut to 180 foot-pounds with a 32 mm socket and torque wrench. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle. Install the spring washer and axle nut cover to the axle shaft. Install a new cotter pin through the axle shaft and axle nut cover and bend the legs tightly around the cover in opposite directions with pliers.

16

Install the wheel and tire to the vehicle. Install the lug nuts hand tight. Lift the front of the vehicle off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a criss-cross pattern. Replace any lost transmission fluid with fresh automatic transmission fluid.

17

Drive the vehicle to a local repair shop to have the front end alignment checked and adjusted as necessary.