How to Change the Front Brakes on a 2003 S10 2WD

The 2003 model year was the next-to-last model year in the successful production life of the Chevrolet S-10, which began in 1982. The 2003 S-10 came in either two- or four-wheel drive and had a standard 2.2-liter engine to go along with an optional 4.3-liter V-6. Replacing the brakes on the two-wheel-drive 2003 S-10 is a fairly complex task, as it involves removing and reinstalling the wheel bearings. While you have the bearing outs, it is best to inspect them to prevent future failures.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels, using a ratchet and socket. Lift the front of the truck with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the trucks frame rails. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the front wheels off the truck.

2

Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper, so the clamps screw side contacts the rear of the outer brake pad and its fixed side contacts the rear of the caliper. Place a drain pan under the brake caliper and open the bleeder valve on the rear of the caliper with a combination wrench. Immediately start tightening the C-clamp until the clamp stops moving, then tighten the bleeder valve.

3

Remove the two bolts securing the caliper to the front spindle, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the caliper and brake pads upward and off the rotor as one assembly. Hang the caliper and pads with a bungee cord from the coil spring.

4

Pull the inner brake pad outward to disengage its retaining clip from the cavity in the caliper piston and remove the brake pad. Slide the outer brake pad toward the caliper piston to guide its retaining tabs from the grooves in the calipers body.

5

Line up the tabs on the rear of the new outer brake pad with the grooves in the caliper and slide the new outer brake pad into place on the caliper. Align the retaining clip on the rear of the new inner brake pad with the cavity in the caliper piston. Press the brake pad toward the caliper piston until the clip is fully inserted into the cavity.

6

Pry the grease cap off the center of the rotor with a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the cotter pin from the spindle shaft, using needle-nose pliers and remove the castellated spindle shaft nut with a ratchet and socket. Pull outward on the rotor to dislodge the outer wheel bearing and washer, and pull the bearing and washer from the spindle shaft.

7

Thread the castellated spindle nut onto the spindle shaft about three turns. Pull the rotor outward until you feel the inner wheel bearing contact the spindle nut. Pull outward on the rotor sharply to disengage the inner wheel bearing and grease seal from the rotor. Remove the rotor, spindle nut, inner bearing and grease seal from the spindle shaft.

8

Inspect the rotor for any defects, including deep grooves, evidence of grinding, hot spots, cracking or a mirror-like shine. If any defects exist, replace the rotor.

9

Clean the wheel bearings thoroughly with parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free cloth. Inspect the wheel bearings for any looseness by wiggling them back and forth, and inspect them for any resistance while spinning them. If they are loose or have resistance, replace both bearings.

10

Fill a bearing packing tools reservoir with new multipurpose grease and set one bearing in the reservoir. Slide the bearing packing tools plunger into the reservoir and with one smooth stroke press the plunger downward as far as it will go to pack the bearing with new grease. Remove the bearing and repeat this step on the other bearing.

11

Clean the hole in the center of the rotor with parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free cloth. Apply a thin coating of bearing grease to the inner and outer bearing races the new rotor comes with new races preinstalled.

12

Insert the inner bearing into the rear part of the hole in the center of the rotor. Set a new grease seal over the bearing and drive it in with a hammer and grease seal driver. Guide the rotor onto the spindle shaft.

13

Slide the outer bearing up the spindle shaft and into the center of the rotor. Guide the washer onto the spindle shaft and hand-thread the castellated spindle nut onto the spindle shaft. Spin the rotor forward as you torque the spindle nut to 12 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket. Loosen the spindle nut roughly a half turn, then hand-tighten the spindle nut.

14

Loosen the spindle nut until a valley on the castellated spindle nut aligns with the hole through the spindle shaft, if needed. Guide a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle shaft and bend its legs in opposite directions to lock it into place. Set the grease cap in place on the center of the rotor and seat it by striking it lightly with a rubber mallet.

15

Remove the caliper and brake pads from the bungee cord and reinstall them on the front spindle. Hand-tighten the caliper-to-spindle bolts, then torque them to 38 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

16

Repeat steps 2 through 15 to change the brakes on the other side of the truck.

17

Reinstall the front wheels on the front hubs and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the S-10 off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to 100 foot-pounds.

18

Press the brake pedal about two-thirds of its total travel and release it. Wait approximately 15 seconds, then press and release the brake pedal again until it feels firm. Check the fluid level in the brake master cylinder and refill it to the Max level with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid.

19

Drive the S-10 to a road with little to no traffic. When traffic is clear, accelerate the truck to 30 mph and press the brake pedal with moderate firmness until the truck comes to a complete stop. Wait about 10 seconds and repeat this step about 20 times with a 10-second wait between each stop.

20

Take any old brake fluid to a nearby automotive fluid recycling center for disposal. Some auto parts stores take old fluids without charge.