How to Make Your Own Braided Steel Brake Lines

Braided steel brake lines function well when applied to vehicles or motorcycles. The reinforced construction of braided steel lines can hold very high pressures without flexing or bulging, and this aids with instant fluid travel in an enclosed system. Braided brake lines are heat and abrasion resistant, able to make tight turns in confined spaces without kinking. They also have a pleasing aesthetic appeal, in comparison to the stock or standard black hoses. A vehicle owner can install his own braided steel brakes lines, using a few basic tools and step-by- -step procedures.

Instructions

Installation

1

Set the vehicle transmission in park or neutral, depending on your transmission type, if this is a car or truck. Apply the emergency brake and raise the hood, if installing lines from the master cylinder on down. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and jack stands to afford easy access to the brake line system. For a motorcycle, set it on the kickstand and remove any fairing that covers the brake lines, with a socket and wrench or screwdriver.

2

Measure how much braided brake line you will need from fitting to fitting. Use string or a long piece of cord to follow the original path of the old brake line. Use a tape measure to measure the length of string, and temporarily mark the length on the braided line with a felt pen. Measure the brake line fittings at both ends and subtract their combined length, then readjust your brake line length by remarking the braided line. Allow 1/4 inch or so excess to avoid under-cutting the length.

3

Clamp the braided line in a bench vise, just tight enough to hold the line. Wrap the cut location with electrical tape to protect against fraying. Cut the line with a fine-tooth hacksaw, using light, even strokes. Use a center punch to gently pry the fitting hole open into an even concentric circle. If starting at the master cylinder, use a line wrench to remove the old line at the master cylinder, then at the caliper, or splitter block. Remove the banjo fitting from the caliper with a socket and retain the fitting for reuse, or purchase new ones if you need to. Place cans at the fitting locations to catch drippings.

4

Use a utility knife to scrape off enough clear coating on the end of the braided line to allow for the fitting -- 1/2 to 1 inch. Insert a compression nut on the end of the line, about 1/2 inch back from the end, with the threads pointing outward. Use a slot screwdriver to pry back the braid on the line, enough so that it will fit inside the compression nut.

5

Install a new brake line fitting on the master cylinder, and tighten it with a line wrench. Use a 90-, 45-degree or straight-angle fitting, according to your preference. Insert the compression ring inside the inner bore of the braided line. Twist and push the compression nut over the excess braid until flush with the compression ring.

6

Fit the braided line to the fitting on the master cylinder and screw in the compression nut with a line wrench until tight. Hold the master cylinder fitting with a wrench to keep it immobile. Use this same procedure to make the other end of the line if you are attaching it to a splitter block. If the line is going straight to the caliper, route it along the path of the old line and temporarily snap it into the clip brackets, or use a socket and wrench to loosen the bracket and install the line.

7

Prepare the other end of the braided line, as you did with the master cylinder line, but install the compression nut on the end of the line first, with the threads pointing out. Scrap the clear coat back, pry the bore open slightly and flare the braid back.

8

Push the compression ring into the bore of the braided line and attach the brake line banjo fitting to the compression ring on the other side. Slide the compression nut against the banjo threads and tighten the nut with a line wrench, but only snug-tight. Place the banjo fitting back on the caliper, insert the banjo bolt and tighten it at the correct angle. Finish tightening the compression nut on the line with the line wrench.

9

Install all of your braided steel brake lines using the above procedure. Secure them in the existing brake line holders or brackets. Some brake lines will route through holes in the frame, so be sure to run them through them. Keep the lines away from moving parts and heat sources. Do not over-tighten the compression nuts (collars), since if you make a mistake you will need to purchase new compression rings.

Bleeding the Brake System

10

Check your master cylinder level and add brake fluid if the level is down. Have an assistant pump up the brake pedal and hold it while you use a line wrench to open the fittings at the master cylinder. Use a can to catch dribbles. Ensure that no air escapes the master cylinder fittings. Have the assistant pump up and hold the pedal while you open the fittings, as many times as needed until a steady stream of brake fluid appears. Tighten the fittings with the line wrench.

11

Use the same pump up and hold procedure on the rear fittings, or outbound side of the splitter block. This small block directs the brake lines to the rear wheels. Bleed each fitting until no air escapes from both fittings. Tighten the fittings with a line wrench.

12

Move to the wheel that is furthest from the brake master cylinder, usually the right rear wheel on domestic vehicles. Have an assistant pump up the pedal and hold it. Place a catch pan under the wheel. Use a bleeder wrench to open the brake bleeder valve, allowing air to escape, then close the bleeder valve. Repeat until a steady stream of brake fluid exits. Refill the master cylinder as needed.

13

Move to the next rear wheel and perform the same bleeding procedure. Remember the sequence: pump up, hold, loosen the valve and then tighten it. Move to the front wheel furthest away from the master cylinder, and bleed it similarly. Move to the last wheel and bleed it with the same procedure. Check and re-fill the master cylinder, as needed.