Installation of a Master Brake Cylinder in a 1995 Ford F-150

Before 1995, the F-150 maintained its no-frills attitude, making items like air conditioning, cassette player and power accessories only optional. The 1995 model year brought in the introduction of the Eddie Bauer edition F-150 that included all of the aforementioned features as standard, as well as alloy wheels and two-tone paint. Regardless of how luxurious your 1995 F-150 is, it still has the same brake system as the rest. Replacing the master cylinder on the 1995 F-150 is a straightforward task, but bleeding the system afterward is a little tricky.

Instructions

Master Cylinder Removal

1

Press and hold the brake pedal for about five seconds to bleed out any vacuum that may still be in the brake booster. Unscrew the cap from the master cylinder reservoir and siphon out as much fluid as you can, using a clean turkey baster.

2

Pry upward on the locking tab on the brake fluid level sensors wiring harness with a flat-head screwdriver and unplug the wiring harness.

3

Hold a small drain pan under the master cylinder. Loosen the fittings on the two brake lines leading into the brake master cylinder, using a flare wrench, and pull the lines from the master cylinder.

4

Remove the two master cylinder-to-brake booster nuts with a ratchet and socket, and pull the master cylinder from the brake booster.

Master Cylinder Bench Bleeding

5

Clamp the new master cylinder into a rubber jawed bench vice. Unscrew the cap from the master cylinder reservoir and add fresh DOT 3 brake fluid until the level reaches the Max line on the reservoir.

6

Pull the plastic plugs from the brake line portals on the master cylinder and thread bleeder hoses from a master cylinder bleeder kit into the ports. Tighten the hoses with a flare wrench. Bend the hoses so their ends are submerged in brake fluid.

7

Press and release the plunger on the rear of the master cylinder, using the metal dowel rod included in the bleeder kit, and watch the submerged ends of the bleeder hoses for air bubbles. Continue pressing and releasing the plunger until no air bubbles come from the bleeder hoses.

8

Remove the bleeder hoses, using a flare wrench, and press the plugs back into the brake line portals. Remove the master cylinder from the bench vice.

Master Cylinder Installation

9

Slide the master cylinder onto the mounting studs on the brake booster and hand-thread its retaining nuts. Tighten the nuts to between 13 and 25 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

10

Pull the plugs from the brake line ports on the master cylinder. Insert the two brake lines into their respective ports in the master cylinder they are hard formed to prevent incorrect connection and thread their fittings into the master cylinder by hand. Torque the front brake line-to-master cylinder fitting to between 16 and 21 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and crows foot attachment. Tighten the rear brake line-to-master cylinder fitting to between 11 and 14 foot-pounds.

11

Plug the fluid level sensors wiring harness into the sensors receptacle.

Bleeding the Brake System

12

Raise the rear of the F-150 with a floor jack and slide jack stands under its frame rails. Lower the pickup on to the floor jacks.

13

Crawl under the right rear wheel until you are directly behind the right rear wheel. Find the 1/4-inch metal bleeder valve near the top of the drum brake backing plate.

14

Press a 1/4-inch-diameter rubber hose onto the bleeder valve and set the other end in a clean, clear container. Add new DOT 3 brake fluid to the container until the fluid submerges the end of the hose.

15

Open the bleeder valve by turning it three-quarters of a turn counter-clockwise with a combination wrench and instruct an assistant to slowly press the brake pedal to the floor. Watch the submerged end of the hose for air bubbles to appear. Close the bleeder valve. Repeat this step until no air bubbles come from the hose, then remove the hose from the bleeder valve.

16

Refill the master cylinder with new DOT 3 fluid, until the level reaches the Max line.

17

Repeat steps 2 through 5 to bleed the left rear wheel.

18

Raise the rear of the truck off the jack stands, using a floor jack, and remove the jack stands. Lower the rear of the truck to the ground.

19

Raise the front of the F-150 with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the frame rails. Lower the truck onto the jack stands.

20

Crawl under the drivers side of the F-150 until you are just under the firewall; look at the drivers side frame rail and find the hydraulic component bolted to the frame rail, this is the rear antilock brake system valve.

21

Find the bleeder valve near the rear of the RABS valve. Press a 1/4-inch-diameter rubber hose onto the bleeder valve and set the other end of the hose in the clean, clear container with brake fluid in it, so the fluid submerges the end of the hose.

22

Repeat steps 4 and 5 to bleed the RABS valve.

23

Move to the right front wheel and repeat steps 3 through 5 on the right front wheel, then the left front wheel.

24

Raise the rear of the F-150 off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground. Repeat this step on the front of the truck.