How to Install Front Brake Pads on a 1999 Chevy Tracker
Though it looks like an SUV, the Chevy Tracker is actually certified as a light truck because of its off-road capabilities. As the first yea...
Though it looks like an SUV, the Chevy Tracker is actually certified as a light truck because of its off-road capabilities. As the first year of the second generation, the 1999 Tracker came in only one trim level, with a 1.6-liter engine, a five-speed manual transmission and rear-wheel drive as standard equipment. Anti-lock brakes, four-wheel drive, a four-speed automatic transmission and a 2.0-liter engine were options.
Instructions
Removal
- 1
Park your Tracker on firm, level ground. Raise the hood and locate the brake master cylinder fluid reservoir on the driver-side firewall. Wipe the cap and reservoir with a clean shop rag to remove dirt or debris that may fall into the reservoir when you remove cap.
2Set the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels a few turns, using a lug nut tool, but do not remove them. Locate the jacking points on the frame rail just behind the front tire wells. Jack the front of the vehicle up and support it on jack stands. Finish removing the lug nuts and remove the wheels.
3Remove the two caliper retaining bolts from the caliper, using a ratchet and socket. Install a length of clear tubing on the caliper bleeder valve, and lead the loose end into a catch pan. Open the bleeder valve using an open-ended wrench. Cock the caliper on the rotor to compress the caliper piston slightly and force brake fluid from the bleeder valve, then close the bleeder valve. Lift the caliper from the mounting bracket and support it with a bungee cord or piece of wire.
4Remove the old brake pads and shims from the caliper mounting bracket. Inspect the bracket under the shim locations, and remove any rust or corrosion from the bracket at these points, using a wire brush. Remove the rotor retaining screws, if applicable -- stock rotors have retaining screws, aftermarket rotors may not. Slide the rotors from the lugs and inspect them for wear. Scratch a fingernail across the surface and if any of the grooves are deep enough to catch your nail, then have the rotors measured for minimal thickness, and resurface or replace as necessary.
Installation
- 5
Install the new shims and brake pads in the bracket. Place an old brake pad on the piston-side of the caliper and install a large C-clamp bearing on the caliper body and the old pad. Open the bleeder valve, then compress the caliper piston back into the caliper body while capturing the brake fluid for disposal. Do not over-compress the piston and damage the rubber piston boot. Close the bleeder valve once the caliper is fully compressed, and remove the clear tubing.
6Release the C-clamp and remove the old brake pad. Quickly install the caliper in the caliper bracket. Install and torque the caliper retaining bolts to 20 foot-pounds.
7Install the front wheels and install the lug nuts finger tight. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Using a cross-pattern, torque the lug nuts to 69 foot-pounds, starting with the lug at the 12 o'clock position.
8Add DOT 3 brake fluid until the fluid level is up to the "Max" mark on the reservoir. Start the engine and slowly pump the brake pedal until the pedal becomes firm. Check the brake fluid level and add fluid as necessary to bring it up to the "Max" level mark on the reservoir. Install the reservoir cap and close the hood. Pump the pedal until it feels normally firm.