How to Remove the Front Hub of a 2004 Dodge Neon 2.0

The wheel hub on your 2004 Dodge Neon is pressed into the steering knuckle, along with the wheel bearing and bearing race. Replacing the whe...

The wheel hub on your 2004 Dodge Neon is pressed into the steering knuckle, along with the wheel bearing and bearing race. Replacing the wheel hub is an extensive process that requires removing the steering knuckle from the vehicle and pressing the bearing, race and hub in and out of the knuckle with an arbor press. Due to the design of the hub and knuckle assembly it is recommended to take the steering knuckle to a local repair shop to have the bearing and or wheel hub replaced. Because you have to remove the knuckle for this repair you will also need to have a front end alignment done after completion.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be serviced with a lug wrench. Lift the front of the vehicle into the air with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front frame rails, do not support the vehicle by the control arms. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands. Remove the wheel and tire from the vehicle.

    2

    Remove the cotter pin from the axle lock nut with pliers. Remove the spindle nut cover. Install the 3/4-inch drive 32 mm socket onto the spindle nut. Instruct a helper to sit in the vehicle and apply the brakes. Loosen the spindle nut with the 32 mm socket and 3/4-inch drive breaker bar. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle.

    3

    Remove the spindle nut and spring washer from the wheel hub. Remove the caliper slide pins from the steering knuckle and caliper with a socket and ratchet. Tilt the top of the caliper away from the knuckle and pull the bottom away from the lower slider. Hang the caliper from the suspension with mechanics wire.

    4

    Remove the retainers around the wheel studs with pliers, if equipped. Remove the brake rotor from the wheel hub. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end stud with pliers. Hold the tie-rod end stud stead with a wrench while loosening the castle nut with a wrench. Separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle with a tie-rod end separator. Remove the tie-rod heat shield.

    5

    Remove the nut and pinch bolt securing the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle with a socket and ratchet; use a wrench to prevent counter movement of the stud. Hold the strut to knuckle bolts stationary with a wrench and remove the nuts with a socket and ratchet. Drive the bolts out of the knuckle and strut with a hammer and pin punch, do not rotate the bolts during removal or damage will occur.

    6

    Support the steering knuckle by hand and pry down on the lower control arm between the control arm and ball joint boss. Wrap mechanics wire around the axle shaft and suspension so that when the knuckle is removed the shaft will not hang by the inboard joint. Slide the steering knuckle away from the axle shaft.

    7

    Install a lug nut onto one of the wheel studs at least four full revolutions, and strike it with a hammer to knock it out of its bore in the hub. Rotate the hub until the stud can be removed through the machined groove in the backing plate. Repeat this process for all wheel studs, if the wheel hub is being replaced.

    8

    Take the wheel hub and knuckle assembly to a local repair shop to have the wheel bearing and hub removed and replaced from the steering knuckle.

Installation

    9

    Rotate the hub until one of the stud holes is in line with the machined groove on the knuckle backing plate. Place a wheel stud through the groove and into the stud bore on the wheel hub. Pull the new wheel stud into place until it is flush with the back of the wheel hub with the proper fittings from the wheel stud installer kit. Repeat this step for the remaining studs, if the wheel hub was replaced.

    10

    Slide the hub onto the splines of the axle shaft, they should spline together smoothly. Push down on the lower control arm and guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle so that the machined groove in the stud lines up with the pinch bolt hole in the knuckle boss. Install a new pinch bolt and nut through the steering knuckle and ball joint stud. Tighten the nut to 70 foot-pounds with a torque wrench, using a wrench to hold the bolt stationary.

    11

    Line the lower strut mounting flange with the holes in the steering knuckle. Install the bolts so that the bolt heads will face the front of the vehicle. Tap the bolts through the knuckle and strut with a hammer, do not turn the bolts during installation. Install the nuts and tighten to 40 foot-pounds plus an additional 90 degrees while holding the bolt stationary with a wrench.

    12

    Set the tie-rod shield into position on the steering knuckle so that it will face straight away from the steering gear and align the shield hole with the hole in the steering knuckle. Set the tie-rod end into place and install the castle nut. Hold the tie-rod end stud stationary with a wrench and tighten the castle nut to 40 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and crowfoot attachment. Slide a new cotter pin through the tie-rod end stud and castle nut. Wrap each leg of the cotter pin around the castle nut tightly and in opposite directions.

    13

    Slide the brake rotor onto the wheel hub and install the rotor retainers, if equipped. Support the brake caliper by hand and remove the mechanics wire. Install the caliper onto the steering knuckle; the right caliper will attach to the top slider and push into place at the bottom and the left side will slide onto the bottom slide and push into place at the top. Install the caliper guide pins and tighten to 192 inch-pounds.

    14

    Install a new spring washer and spindle nut to the axle shaft and snug it hand tight. Instruct a helper to sit in the vehicle and apply the brakes. Tighten the spindle nut to 180 foot-pounds with the 32 mm socket and 3/4-inch breaker bar. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle. Install the spindle nut cover and push a new cotter pin through the axle shaft end. Wrap each leg of the cotter pin tightly around the axle shaft in opposite directions.

    15

    Install the wheel and tire onto the vehicle; tighten the lug nuts hand tight. Lift the vehicle off of the jack stands and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a criss-cross pattern.

    16

    Drive the vehicle to a local repair shop to have the alignment checked and adjusted as necessaru.

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