How to Replace the Rear Rotors on a 2007 Silverado 2500
Rear rotor damage occurs over time on your Silverado 2500 but can happen more often if you use the truck to repeatedly tow or carry heavy lo...
Rear rotor damage occurs over time on your Silverado 2500 but can happen more often if you use the truck to repeatedly tow or carry heavy loads. Even though the truck is designed with this capability in mind, it doesn't change the fact that the heavier the load, the harder the brake system has to work to stop it. A typical sign of rear rotor damage is the truck lunging forward instead of stopping evenly when you apply the brakes. With a few tools, you can replace the rear rotors on your 2007 Silverado 2500 right at home. The repair should take 60 to 90 minutes.
Instructions
- 1
Raise the hood on your Silverado and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Take the cap off the reservoir and use a baster to remove half of the brake fluid. Set the baster to the side of your work area in an upright position so that the fluid doesn't leak all over the ground. Do not discard the fluid, because you will need it at the end of the repair job.
2Place a wheel block in front of each of the front tires. Make sure that they're firmly jammed into position.
3Loosen the lug nuts on the rear passenger tire with your lug wrench a half-turn, but don't completely remove them. Raise the rear end of the truck with a hydraulic jack and place a jack stand near the tire, beneath the frame rail, to help support the truck.
4Remove all of the lug nuts and slide the tire off the wheel studs. Roll the tire out of the work area and place the lug nuts in your pocket for safekeeping.
5Place an 8-inch C-clamp around the outer body of the brake caliper and wind the screw down until it touches the surface of the outer brake pad. If you look at the back of the inner brake pad, you should see the caliper's piston pushing against its surface. The rounded section on the brake caliper is the bore hole that houses the piston. Begin turning the C-clamp clockwise, slowly, until you see that the piston has completely retracted into the bore hole, then remove the C-clamp.
6Remove the upper and lower caliper mounting bracket bolts with a socket wrench. Place a 5-gallon bucket right next to the bracket assembly. Pull the assembly off the rotor, using both hands, then set it down on top of the bucket. Make sure that the brake line isn't twisted or pulled too tightly. If so, scoot the bucket closer.
7Remove the rotor by pulling it straight off the wheel studs in an outward motion. Install the new rotor by reversing this step.
8Slide the mounting bracket back down over the new rotor and start each of its bolts by hand. Set your 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to 221 ft-lbs. and then completely tighten both bolts in place.
9Remount the tire on the wheel studs and return each of the lug nuts by hand as well. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern until snug. using your lug wrench.
10Remove the jack stand and lower the truck until the tire contacts the ground--enough to give it traction. Reset the torque wrench to 140 ft-lbs. and continue the star-pattern tightening until the lug nuts are totally secure. Lower the truck completely and remove the hydraulic jack.
11Pump the brake pedal until it stiffens beneath your foot, then check the brake fluid level. If the fluid appears low, add some of the brake fluid from the baster to bring it to the correct level and then put the cap back on the reservoir. Use this procedure to change your other rear rotor as well.