How to Do a Brake Job on a 2000 Ford Mustang

Attention to detail is key in a trouble-free brake job on the 2000 Ford Mustang. Equipped with four-wheel disc brakes and a Bosch 5.3 anti-lock braking system, the Mustang finally received the stopping power it needed. In exchange for this refinement, tolerances in areas such as maximum allowable run-out are very tight when compared to previous Mustangs. Resurfacing or replacement of the brake rotors and special care when replacing the brake pads cannot be overlooked when servicing the brake system on this car.

Instructions

Front brakes

1

Position wheel chocks behind and in front of the rear wheels. Loosen the front lug-nuts one half turn. Do not remove them at this time. Raise the front of the vehicle, using a floor jack, until the front wheels are off the ground. Slide jack stands under the front sub-frame and lower the car onto the jack stands. Remove the front wheels and place them aside to prevent tripping hazards.

2

Remove the rubber dust boots that cover the caliper slide pins, and unbolt the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket. Use a large screwdriver to pry the caliper up and off the rotor. Hang the caliper out of the way using a piece of stiff wire or coat hanger. Remove the large bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper bracket and slide the rotor off the hub assembly.

3

Take the brake rotors to your local auto parts store or repair shop and have them checked for thickness and run-out. Maximum allowable run-out is 0.001 inch on the front rotors. Minimum thickness is 0.970 inch on the front rotors and 0.500 on the rear rotors. Replace the rotor if it cannot be machined to these specifications. Rotors that are too thin will warp easily, and rotors that have excessive run-out will cause brake pedal pulsations and decreased brake efficiency.

4

Slip the brake rotor onto the hub assembly. Position the caliper bracket over the rotor and bolt it securely to the steering knuckle. Place the new pads into the bracket.

5

Open the bleeder screw on the top of the caliper and use a C-clamp to push the caliper piston into the caliper housing. Close the bleeder screw and remove the C-clamp. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pins. Slide the caliper over the new pads, and bolt it to the caliper bracket using the 10 millimeter slide pins

6

Replace the wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time with the car sitting on the ground.

Rear Brakes

7

Lift the rear of the vehicle in the same manner described in Section 1. Place the jack stands under the rear axle tubes and lower the car onto them. Remove the rear wheels and place them out of the work area.

8

Remove the two 10 millimeter slide pins that attach the caliper to the rear caliper bracket. Pry the caliper off the rotor using a large screwdriver. Slide the brake rotor off the hub assembly. and have it measured and machined. The maximum allowable run-out for the rear rotors is 0.002 inch, and minimum thickness is 0.500. Replace any rotor that doesn't meet this specification.

9

Open the bleeder screw on top of the caliper. The rear caliper is equipped with an actuator for the parking brakes and requires the piston to be screwed into the caliper housing. Use a caliper piston tool to twist and push the caliper piston into the caliper housing.

10

Install the new pads onto the caliper bracket and slip the caliper into place. Apply a small amount of silicon brake grease to the slide pin bolts and bolt the caliper to the bracket.

11

Replace the rear wheels and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts one final time.

12

Top off the brake fluid in the master cylinder and pump the brake pedal to expand the calipers into the pads.