How to Fix a Front Wheel Bearing in a 1994 F150 Pickup

The 1994 Ford F150 two-wheel-drive pickup uses loaded brake rotors, meaning they house the bearings, rather than having the bearings in a separate hub. There is an inner bearing and an outer thrust bearing. Normal service dictates that you repack the bearings every 30,000 miles for extending the life of the bearings. Usually there is very little grease left in the bearings at this point. The bearings are tapered roller style with separate bearing races pressed into the rotor.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel to be removed by one turn only. Raise the truck with the floor jack and place jack stands under the frame. Lower the truck so it rests on the stands. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

2

Loosen the caliper bleeder screw one turn with a wrench. Pry the caliper piston back into its bore by inserting the screwdriver through the top slot on the caliper and between the inside brake pad and rotor. Pry the inside pad away from the rotor, which will push the caliper piston into its bore. There is no need to pry the piston all the way into the bore, since you're not replacing the brakes. This will just make it easier to remove the caliper. Close the bleeder screw.

3

Remove the two caliper slider bolts, using a socket and ratchet, and lift the caliper off the rotor. Lay the caliper on top of the spring perch so it does not hang by its hose. Remove the two caliper mounting bracket bolts with a socket and ratchet. Lift the bracket off and lay it aside. Remove the grease cup, using the removal tool.

4

Bend the cotter pin up with the wire cutters and remove the pin. Remove the spindle nut with the large adjustable wrench. Place your hand under the front spindle on the rotor to catch the outer bearing and spacer as they fall out. Grab the rotor on both sides and rock it to remove the front spacer and bearing.

5

Install the spindle nut a few threads. Grasp the rotor with both hands and with a small amount of downward pressure quickly yank the rotor off the spindle. The spindle nut will catch the inner bearing and seal and pull them out where they are left hanging on the spindle.

6

Lay the rotor on a clean cloth. Place the chisel or punch tip on the inside top of the bearing race. Hammer the race out the bottom of the rotor by tapping it at four corners or 90 degrees apart. Flip the rotor over and remove the other race in the same way.

7

Wipe out the bearing race surface inside the rotor. Open the bearing package and remove the race. Lay the bearing down, but keep it totally clean. Place the first bearing race, tapered side out, into the rotor. It will only go in a small amount, so gently tap in around the edge to get it started perfectly straight. Take the old race and place it on top of the new bearing with the tapered side down. Seat the new race in the rotor by hammering on the old bearing race. Keep hammering until you can hear the distinctive solid sound indicating the race is seated. It is vitally important that the race is fully seated or it will seat after the wheel is installed and the lug nuts are tightened. What will happen is the race will seat itself, which will loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. Do the same for the second race.

8

Spread a little grease from inside the rotor over the two races. Place some grease in the palm of your clean hand. Scrape the grease out of your hand with the wide side of each bearing. Keep rotating and scraping the bearings until all the rollers are packed with grease.

9

Place the large inner bearing, tapered end down, into the rear of the rotor. Lay the seal over the bearing and tap it down gently with the hammer until it is flush. Place the rotor on the spindle and hold it all the way in with one hand while installing the outer bearing, taper in, followed by the spacer and spindle nut.

10

Tighten the spindle nut with the large adjustable wrench little by little while rotating the rotor. When the nut becomes tight enough to provide considerable resistance to any further tightening, loosen the nut a half turn. Rotate the rotor and tighten the nut again. Loosen the nut a half turn again and stop there.

11

Install the lock plate over the spindle nut and insert the cotter pin and bend it with the wire cutters so it can't come out. Install the grease cup and tap it gently with the hammer. Install the caliper mounting bracket and torque the bolts to 80 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

12

Squeeze the brake pads together so they are in full contact with the rotor. Lower the caliper over the brake pads, install the two slider bolts and torque them to 30 foot-pounds. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Snug the lug nuts. Lower the truck and torque the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Open the hood and check the brake fluid level. Correct as necessary. Pump the brake pedal 10 times slowly to tighten up the brake caliper before moving the truck.