How to Get the Rotor Off of a 1985 F150

The best thing you can say about 1980s F150s is that they were trucks. Trucks in the traditional sense; real trucks, designed for work, and ...

The best thing you can say about 1980s F150s is that they were trucks. Trucks in the traditional sense; real trucks, designed for work, and to survive decades of constant use and abuse without complaint. Box F150s were the kinds of trucks that just didn't look right without a few dents, a cracked window and scratches in the bed. And Ford knew you'd use this quintessential hauler to its maximum, and likely end up repairing anything that went wrong in your driveway. So, they intentionally made replacement of wear items like brake pads, rotors and wheel bearings as pain-free and inexpensive as possible.

Instructions

    1

    Break your lug nuts loose, lift the front of the truck and sit it on jackstands. Remove the wheel, and then remove the bolts that secure the brake caliper to the caliper mounting bracket, Hang the caliper from the frame or suspension using heavy duty wire; allowing it to dangle can damage the brake hose.

    2

    Remove the hub's grease bearing cap. The simplest way is to tap down and outward on the cap to open a gap between the cap flange and rotor, and then insert a screwdriver in the gap to pop the cap free. Once you get the cap off, you'll see the cotter pin that secures the ale nut; remove it with your pliers, and unscrew the nut.

    3

    Pull the thrust washer off of the spindle, and keep track of it. Pull the rotor forward a bit, then push it back in the break the outer wheel bearing free. Pull the outer wheel bearing from the rotor with a screwdriver, and remove it. Pull the rotor off of the spindle, and be careful not to drag it over the threads on the spindle.

    4

    Remove the grease seal and the inner wheel bearing from the rotor, and thoroughly clean the bearings and rotor with solvent to inspect them. If either looks even slightly questionable, then you might as well replace them. New bearings and rotors are cheap insurance, and they're bound to wear out sooner or later.

    5

    Clean your new rotor with brake cleaner to remove the packing oil. Clean the spindle, and pack your new bearings with grease. Install the new bearing cups if your rotor didn't come with them pressed in -- which most do. Push the new inner bearing into place, and install your new rear seal with a rubber mallet. Lubricate the inner-edge of the seal with grease, grease the spindle, and push the rotor on over the spindle.

    6

    Install the outer wheel bearing over the spindle and into the rotor, and press it in with both thumbs. Grease the thrust washer over the spindle and outer bearing, and then thread the nut on by hand. Tighten the nut to 20 foot-pounds, then spin the rotor. Lossen the nut, and spin the rotor again. Tighten the nut with your fingers -- or about 20 inch-pounds -- and spin the rotor. Loosen the castle nut as need be to align it with the hole in the spindle.

    7

    Install the cotter pin, and bend it back against the nut. Tap the grease cap on with a mallet, and then test-spin the rotor again. Reinstall the brake caliper; grease the smooth part of the bolt, reinstall and torque the caliper bolts to 42 foot-pounds. Reinstall the wheel and lug nuts, drop the truck, and tighten the lug nuts.

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