1996 Camry Brake Pad Removal

The 1996 Toyota Camry is equipped with a front brake system consisting of single piston floating calipers, semi-metallic brake pads and hub-less rotors. As the brakes are applied, the calipers squeeze the brake pads against the rotors and slow the vehicle. Over time, the pads, which are designed to wear, become thin and brittle. The replacement procedure for the brake pads in the 1996 Camry is similar to that on most Toyota vehicles, and the average home mechanic will take about an hour to complete the task.

Instructions

1

Wedge the wheel chocks against the rear wheels and set the parking brake firmly. Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels, about one turn, using a lug wrench. Raise the front of the Camry, using a floor jack positioned under the front sub-frame. Place jack stands under the sub-frame and lower the Toyota onto the stands.

2

Remove the front wheels, using the lug wrench, and place the wheels and nuts out of the way. Position the drain pan under the brake caliper, on one side of the vehicle. Position the C-clamp so that the body of the clamp is in contact with the back of the brake caliper and the head of the large screw on the clamp is pressing against the outer brake pad.

3

Open the bleeder screw on top of the caliper, using a 10-mm wrench, and twist the C-clamp screw clockwise to compress the caliper piston into the caliper housing, allowing the fluid to drain out through the bleeder screw into the drain pan. Close the bleeder screw and remove the C-clamp.

4

Remove the two 14-mm bolts that attach the caliper to the caliper bracket, using a wrench. Lift the caliper up and off the caliper bracket and hang it from the front strut, using a piece of coat hanger. Remove the two 17-mm bolts that attach the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle, using a socket and ratchet. Lay aside the bracket, along with the anti-rattle hardware and old brake pads.

5

Slide the rotor from the hub assembly -- the Camry rotor is equipped with two 10-mm threaded holes in its face. If the rotor is stuck to the hub screw, place two 10-mm bolts into the two 10-mm holes and tighten them until they force the rotor off the hub.

6

Have the rotor machined at an auto repair shop, or replace it if it is below minimum thickness specifications. The technician at the shop will measure them before they are machined, to verify they are thick enough to machine.

7

Slide the new or freshly-machined rotors onto the hub, and secure them in place with a lug nut screwed onto a lug stud, by hand. Bolt the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle and torque the 17-mm bolts to 79 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench.

8

Install the new pads on the caliper bracket and anti-rattle hardware. Reinstall the caliper over the new pads and onto the caliper bracket. Torque the 14-mm caliper bolts to 25 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench. Fill the brake master cylinder with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid until the level is at the "Max" line on the reservoir.

9

Reinstall the wheels and lower the car from the jack stands by lifting it off the stands with the floor jack and removing the stands before lowering the jack. Torque the lug nuts to 76 foot-pounds with the torque wrench.

10

Pump the brake pedal until it is hard to push, to expand the calipers. Burnish the new pads by driving the car and completing six to 10 stops from 30 mph to 0 mph, with 30 seconds between each stop, to help prevent brake noise.