How to Install Brakes Rotors in a Chevy Silverado

Most all of the Chevy Silverado pickups come with "knock-off" rotors. This means you do not have to disassemble 4-wheel drive hubs...

Most all of the Chevy Silverado pickups come with "knock-off" rotors. This means you do not have to disassemble 4-wheel drive hubs or remove pressed bearing and seals from the rotors in order to replace them. This also means that replacing them can be done in the comfort of your own yard providing you have the proper tools and mechanical ability to install them.

Instructions

How to Install Brakes Rotors in a Chevy Silverado

    1

    Park the Silverado on a level, paved surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and open the hood. Remove half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder and discard it. Secure the master cylinder cap tightly.

    2

    Break the lugnuts loose on the front tires using the breaking bar and a socket. Some of the later-model Silverados may take a 22 millimeter socket for the lugnuts. Lift the front axle of the truck using the floor jack to lift one side at a time and place the jack stands under the front axle. Remove the lugnuts and wheels.

    3

    Start with the left front caliper and remove the two caliper bolts using the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off with the screwdriver and support it to the frame with the bungee cord. Compress the caliper piston inward using the C-clamp until it bottoms out in the caliper housing. Remove the C-clamp.

    4

    Pry the pads out of the caliper bridge memorizing their position. If you're not replacing the pads, it would be recommended to replace them in the same position they were removed from the bridge. Remove the two bridge bolts. These will be difficult to break free so you might want to start with the breaking bar and a socket, then switch over to the ratchet to speed things up. Remove the bridge.

    5

    Remove the rotor. If the rotor is stuck stubbornly to the hub, put in the safety glasses and strike it on the flat plate of the fins with the hammer. Strike it from behind hitting outward and turn it 1/4 turn each time until it breaks free.

    6

    Spray the new rotor with brake clean spray to remove the oil coating on it. This coating prevents rusting as it sits in storage and should be cleaned off thoroughly. Spray both sides of the rotor including inside the hub of the rotor and wipe dry with a shop rag.

    7

    Place the rotor onto the hub and screw on one lug nut to secure it to the hub. Replace the caliper bridge and tighten with the ratchet and a socket. Add a 1/4 to 1/2 turn of the caliper bridge with the breaking bar to make sure it's good and tight. Reinsert the pads into the bridge in the same manner they were removed. If you're replacing new pads, add a coating of the silicone grease (equipped with the pad set) to the pad contact points on the bridge.

    8

    Replace the caliper and caliper bolts and tighten with the ratchet and a socket. Remove the lug nut from the rotor. Replace the wheel and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts flush to the hub, but do not over-tighten them. Repeat Steps 3 to 8 for the right side rotor.

    9

    Lower the Silverado when you're finished and torque the front lug nuts from 120 to 140 foot pounds using the adjustable torque wrench and the socket.

    10

    Pump the foot brake pedal several times to restore the hydraulic pressure to the pistons of the caliper. Once the brake pedal feels normal, recheck the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and add new DOT 3 brake fluid to it and replace the cap securely. Release the parking brake, remove the wheel chock and test drive.

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