How to Change the Front Calipers on a 1993 Ford Escort Wagon

Ford released the Escort in the 1981 model year and dubbed it "the world car," because of the Escort's presence in the interna...

How to Change the Front Calipers on a 1993 Ford Escort Wagon

Ford released the Escort in the 1981 model year and dubbed it "the world car," because of the Escort's presence in the international market. The 1993 Ford Escort, mid-way through its third generation, had a sleeker design than previous models to help it compete against the Honda Civic and Toyota Corolla. The front brakes of the 1993 Escort Wagon are standard disc brakes that use a caliper to press the pads against the rotor. Over time, this caliper may begin to leak of even freeze up. When this occurs the caliper must be changed. The process to change the caliper is straightforward, but requires concentration.

Instructions

Caliper Removal and Replacement

    1

    Loosen the front lug nuts from the wheels. Allow the lug nuts to remain on the wheels at this time.

    2

    Place the jack beneath the Escort and raise the front end off of the ground. Secure the vehicle by placing jack stands beneath it.

    3

    Remove the lug nuts from the front wheels and pull the entire wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.

    4

    Look on the rear portion of the caliper, locate the rubber brake hose that is bolted into it.

    5

    Trace this hose upward and wrap a clean shop rag around it about halfway up.

    6

    Place the locking pliers around the shop rag and close them around the rag, sealing off the rubber brake hose. This prevents air from entering the brake system and brake fluid from leaking out of the system when removed.

    7

    Loosen and remove the bolt holding the brake hose to the rear of the calipernwith the ratchet and socket. This bolt is known as the banjo bolt.

    8

    Discard the two brass or copper washers that come off with the hose; they must be replaced once removed.

    9

    Look at the hole in the top of the brake caliper, where you see the pads from. Notice the two thin, wire clips. The top clip is known as the M-clip and the lower clip is known as the W-clip.

    10

    Remove both clips by pressing the wire clip so it is free from the hole in the brake pad, then pulling the hooked portion from hole in the pin running through each end of each brake pad. The pins are known as brake pad pins.

    11

    Look at the outer portion of the brake pad pins running through the caliper and pads, notice a small rounded head on the end. Place the flathead screwdriver between where the head of the pin meets the caliper and lightly tap the screwdriver with a hammer.

    12

    Pry lightly with the screwdriver until the head of the pin is separated from the caliper's body. If the pin is rusted in, apply a light coat of a rust penetrating chemical, per the instructions on the chemical's container.

    13

    Grab the head of the pin with the channel-lock pliers and pull the pin from the caliper, a slight twisting motion may help the removal process.

    14

    Repeat steps 11 through 13 for the second clip on the caliper.

    15

    Grab the brake pads, by hand, from the hole in the caliper and pull them upward and out of the caliper.

    16

    Look at the rear portion of the brake caliper and locate the two caliper bolts.

    17

    Loosen and remove the two bolts, using a ratchet and socket. Pull the caliper up and off of the braking system.

    18

    Place the new caliper over the brake system and tighten the caliper bolts to 36 to 43 foot-pounds of torque, using the torque wrench and a socket.

    19

    Place a new copper washer, included with the caliper, on the banjo bolt. Push the banjo bolt through the end of the brake line and place a copper washer on the end of the banjo bolt.

    20

    Release the locking pliers from the brake hose and remove the shop rag. Place the brake hose on the rear of the new caliper and tighten the banjo bolt to 16 to 20 foot-pounds of torque.

    21

    Place the old brake pads into the new caliper, just as they were in the old caliper. Press the brake pad pins through the holes in the calipers and both brake pads. Always use new pins, if included with the caliper.

    22

    Replace both the M- and W-clips by inserting the straight end into the hole in the top of the pad and pressing the hooked end into the hole in the brake pad pin. Always use new clips, if they are included with the caliper.

    23

    Repeat steps 4 through 22 for the caliper on the other side if needed.

Bleeding the Brakes

    24

    Look on the rear of the brake caliper and locate the brake bleeder valve, a small brass fitting with that can be loosened or tightened with a wrench. Place the drain pan below the bleeder valve.

    25

    Instruct an assistant to press and release -- pump -- the brake pedal until it feels firm, then hold the brake pedal down.

    26

    Loosen the bleeder valve until air is heard coming from the lines. Repeat steps 2 through 3 until no air, but only brake fluid, flows from the bleeder valve.

    27

    Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the caliper on the opposite side of the Escort. You must bleed both sides, even if only one caliper was replaced.

    28

    Place the front wheels on the Escort and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Remove the jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle to the ground.

    29

    Tighten the lug nuts to 95 foot-pounds in a cross-pattern, using the torque wrench and socket.

    30

    Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir, the plastic container near the rear of the engine compartment, on the driver's side. Notice it has two markings, "Min" and "Max." If the fluid level is not between those two marks, remove the cap and add fluid.

    31

    Close the Escort's hood.

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