How to Change the Front Rotors on a 1995 Ford Ranger

The 1995 Ford Ranger uses a floating caliper that rides on a mounting bracket that overlaps the rotor. The pads are positioned in the mounting bracket, secured with the use of spring clips. The rotor bears the inner and outer wheel bearings. It is always a recommended practice to replace the brake pads when the rotors are machined or replaced. The determining factor whether to machine or replace the rotor is the comparison in thickness after machining, in comparison to the minimum allowable thickness stamped on the rotor. All rotors are different in thickness so always refer to the stamped numbers on the hub. This procedure applies to two-wheel-drive 1995 Rangers. The new rotor will have new bearing races already installed.

Instructions

1

Loosen all the lug nuts on the front wheels one complete turn using the lug wrench. Raise the truck with the floor jack and place jack stands under the frame. Lower the truck to rest on the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts. Remove the wheels.

2

Loosen the caliper bleeder screw on the top inside of the caliper by turning it one turn with a wrench. Insert the common screwdriver in the center slot on the top of the caliper and place the blade between the inside pad and the rotor. Pry the caliper piston slowly all the way into its recess in the caliper bore. Close the bleeder screw.

3

Remove the two slider bolts that secure the caliper to the mounting bracket, using a socket. Lift the caliper off the rotor and lay it on top of the spring perch so it doesn't hang by its hose.

4

Pull the brake pads out of the mounting bracket and remove the springs as well. Remove the two bolts securing the mounting bracket to the knuckle. Remove the grease cup in the center of the rotor using the tool for this purpose.

5

Grab the cotter pin with the wire cutters and remove it. Remove the metal castle-type lock over the spindle nut by pulling it off. Remove the large spindle nut with the large adjustable wrench.

6

Hold the rotor with one hand and catch the large washer and outer bearing set as they fall out of the rotor hub as you wobble it. Lay them on the clean cloth. Install the large spindle nut again and spin it on about three turns.

7

Grasp the rotor on both sides and keeping a slight downward pressure give it a quick yank to pull it off. The spindle nut will catch the rear bearing race and the seal and pull them out of the rotor in this one quick move.

8

Lay the new rotor face down. Pack the rear bearing with grease and lay it into the rear of the rotor hub. Install the rear grease seal over the bearing and tap the seal in gently with the hammer.

9

Pack the outer bearing with grease. Install the rotor over the spindle and hold it all the way back while you insert the front outer bearing followed by the large washer and finally the spindle nut. Turn the spindle nut to tighten it while holding the rotor all the way in.

10

Tighten the spindle nut with the large adjustable wrench by turning the nut clockwise until you feel a lot of resistance. Spin the rotor by hand a couple turns and loosen the spindle nut one half turn with the adjustable wrench. Spin the rotor one more time while tightening the nut again until you feel resistance. Spin the rotor for the third time and turn the spindle nut counterclockwise one half a turn and stop. This way the bearings have been seated properly and the bearings are given room for expansion.

11

Place the castle lock over the spindle nut and install the cotter pin. Tap the grease cup on with the hammer, gently, don't smash it in --- just gently does it. Install the caliper mounting bracket and tighten the bolts to 80 foot pounds. Install the spring clips on the mounting bracket.

12

Install the brake pads in the saddles which are the spring clips. Grasp both pads between the fingers and squeeze them against the rotor. Lay the caliper down over the pads, install the two slider bolts and tighten them to 14 to 26 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Do the other side in the same identical manner.

13

Install the wheel and spin the lug nuts on by hand. Slightly tighten them with the lug wrench. You can't torque the lug nuts with the wheel off the ground. Lower the truck and torque the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds of torque.

14

Open the hood and remove the master cylinder reservoir cap. Fill the reservoir as needed. Replace the cap. Start the truck and slowly pump the brake pedal to the floor ten times. The reason being, the caliper piston is recessed into its bore. Each time the pedal is depressed the caliper emerges just a small amount. You will not have a brake pedal until the piston presses the brake pads against the rotor. After pumping the brakes the pedal will come up.