How to Replace the Control Arm Bushing in a 95 F150

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it." This aphorism has been Ford's guiding principle since day one, and it shows in the 90's F-150 suspension. The F-150's "leading arm" suspension uses a single, large radius arm -- technically different from a control arm -- to allow the truck's front axle to articulate in every direction without excess complexity. The leading arm arrangement saw use almost a century before the F-150, and, like its predecessors of yore, uses a single pivot bushing to allow for movement. Replacement is pretty straightforward, but there are a few pitfalls to watch out for.

Instructions

1

Kick a set of chocks both ahead of and behind the rear wheels. Raise the front of the chassis enough so that the tire just dangles off the ground, and remove the tire. Lower the chassis down onto a set of jack stands, and slide the axle under the front axle. Lift the axle up so that it's level, and leave the jack in place. Spray the radius arm nuts and bolts, the shock absorber nut and the lower coilspring nut liberally with penetrating oil, and allow it to sit for at least ten minutes.

2

Remove the shock absorber fasteners, and remove the shock. Be very careful here; this model-year truck used a stud to mount the shock to the radius arm, and these studs are known to snap off under twisting loads. Remove the lower coilspring nut, and remove the coilspring. There are two ways to do this. Using a spring compressor is the best and safest option, and will greatly ease reassembly. Chaining the coilspring to the axle and slowly lowering the axle jack is another option, but you'll find reassembly much more arduous.

3

Remove the rear radius arm nut, and pull the rear washer and rubber bushing off. You have two options at this point: remove the front radius arm fasteners and pull the radius arm out, or connect a winch or manual come-along to the hole in the radius arm and pull it forward a few inches. Removal is preferable since it reduces the likelihood of damage to other components, but is impractical if your truck uses rivets instead of bolts. You can drill the rivets out and replace them with Grade 8 bolts afterward, but get comfortable -- you'll be at it for a while.

4

Remove the old front bushing and washer, and replace them with the new parts. Clean the radius arm bolt threads, and reinstall the radius arm. Torque the radius arm nut to 100 foot-pounds, the lower shock absorber nut to 70 foot-pounds. If you removed the radius arm bolts, or you're installing new bolts in place of the factory rivets, then torque them to 130 foot-pounds. Use medium (blue) threadlocking compound on all fasteners.