How to Change the Axle Assembly in a 1998 Dodge Stratus

The 1998 Dodge Stratus base model came with a 2.0-liter four-cylinder engine and a five-speed manual transmission. Your stratus is front wheel drive, which means rotational power is transferred from the transmission to the wheel by a constant velocity or CV shaft. Your CV shaft has two constant velocity joints that allow the axle to move up and down with the suspension, as well as flex to the left and right when turning the wheels without disrupting power delivery. When replacing either axle shaft, you will also need to replace the axle shaft nut, retainer and spring washer.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface and set the parking brake. Remove the hub cap from the wheel to be serviced with a pry bar. Bend the axle shaft cotter pin legs strait and then remove the cotter pin with a pair of pliers. Remove the retainer and spring washer from the axle shaft. Instruct a helper to sit in the vehicle and apply the brakes. Loosen, but do not remove the axle shaft nut with a 32 mm socket and breaker bar. Instruct the helper to exit the vehicle.

2

Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Lift the front of the vehicle into the air with a floor jack and place jack stands under the front sub-frame rails. Lower the vehicle until it rests securely on the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and wheel from the vehicle.

3

Remove the caliper bolts with a socket and ratchet. Lift the lower end of the caliper away from the brake rotor and slide the top end of the caliper away from the knuckle. Hang the caliper from the front suspension with mechanics wire; do not let the caliper hang from the rubber brake hose. Remove the brake rotor from the wheel hub.

4

Straighten the legs of the outer tie-rod end cotter pin and then remove the cotter pin with a pair of pliers. Install a 11/32-inch wrench to the outer tie-rod end stud at the steering knuckle. Remove the tie-rod end castle nut with a socket and ratchet, using the wrench to hold the tie-rod end stud. Separate the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle with a tie-rod end separator.

5

Straighten the legs of the lower ball joint cotter pin and remove the cotter pin with a pair of pliers. Remove the lower ball joint castle nut with a socket and ratchet. Rotate the steering knuckle until the front of the knuckle is facing as far outward of the vehicle as possible. Hit the lower ball joint boss with a hammer to separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Support the axle shaft in place with mechanics wire before continuing, if the axle shaft is not being replaced.

6

Pull the steering knuckle towards the outside of the vehicle. Firmly grab the base of the axle shaft at the wheel hub and pull the axle shaft out of the hub. Position yourself under the vehicle and place a pry bar between the inner axle tripod and transmission case. Pry the axle shaft until the snap ring disengages from the differential side gears. Firmly grab the base of the axle shaft and pull it straight out of the transmission. Inspect the output shaft seal for wear or damage and replace as necessary.

Installation

7

Position yourself under the vehicle and lift the new axle shaft into position. Carefully slide the axle shaft into the transmission so that the differential side gears are aligned with the axle shaft splines. Forcefully push the axle shaft into the transmission until the snap ring engages. Pull on the axle tripod; if the axle is properly installed, the shaft will not come loose from the transmission.

8

Clean the splines of the wheel hub and mating surface with a wire brush to remove any debris from the area near the hub assembly. Pull the steering knuckle outwards and guide the new axle shaft into the wheel hub. Push the steering knuckle into place and guide the ball joint stud into the steering knuckle.

9

Install the castle nut onto the lower ball joint stud and tighten the nut to 70 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the castle nut slightly with a socket and ratchet to align the castle nut valley with the hole in the stud, if necessary. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud. Bend the legs of the new cotter pin in opposite directions around the castle nut with pliers.

10

Slide the outer tie-rod end into the steering knuckle and loosely install the castle nut. Install the torque wrench and crowfoot attachment to the tie-rod end stud at the knuckle and tighten the tie-rod end stud to 45 foot-pounds. Install the brake rotor onto the wheel hub.

11

Support the caliper by hand and remove the mechanics wire. Slide the caliper over the brake rotor and steering knuckle. Hold the bottom of the caliper outward and insert the top side of the caliper into the knuckle. Push the bottom of the caliper into position and install the caliper bolts. Tighten the caliper bolts to 23 foot-pounds.

12

Install the new washer and spindle nut onto the new axle shaft threads. Instruct a helper to sit in the vehicle and apply the brakes. Tighten the axle shaft nut to 180 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install a new spring washer and retainer of the axle shaft. Slide a new cotter pin through the retainer and bend the cotter pin legs in opposite directions with pliers.

13

Install the wheel and tire to the vehicle and loosely install the lug nuts. Lift the front of the vehicle off the jack stands and remove the jack stands from under the vehicle. Lower the vehicle to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a criss-cross pattern.

14

Drive the vehicle to a local repair facility to have the alignment checked and adjusted.