How to Remove the Rear Axles of a 2001 Silverado

While the name stretches back all the way to the 1930s as a trim package on the standard Chevrolet pickup, the Silverado as a model of its o...

While the name stretches back all the way to the 1930s as a trim package on the standard Chevrolet pickup, the Silverado as a model of its own didn't debut until GM introduced the next-generation GMT800 platform. Since then, the heavy-duty GMT800 Silverado's made a name for itself in terms of ruggedness, versatility and luxury (for a truck). The Silverado's rear axle, though, remained standard for the line, using many of the same mounting and production methods that its ancestors did seven decades before.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the truck's rear lug nuts, and chock the front wheels both ahead of and behind the times. Raise the rear of the truck until the tires dangle just off of the ground, and support it with jack stands under the frame. Remove the rear tires to access the brake assemblies. Slide your jack under the axle and lift it slightly; support the axle tubes with jack stands. Next, crawl under the truck, and remove the bolts that secure the driveshaft to the axle pinion yoke. Mark the driveshaft and pinion yoke with a reference mark for re-assembly. Pull the driveshaft forward and off of the pinion, and rest it on the ground.

    2

    Remove all of the bolts that secure the brake lines and brake distribution block to the axle, then unbolt and remove the brake calipers from the brake rotors. You could just disconnect the distribution block from the chassis-side brake hose, but doing it this way will eliminate the need to bleed the brakes after re installation. However, you may opt to disconnect the brake lines and leave the calipers on if you're servicing or replacing the brakes during the course of axle replacement or repair.

    3

    Disconnect the parking brake, and then the vent hose from the top of the differential. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link from the chassis, and remove the lower shock absorber through-bolt. Un-plug the wiring harnesses from the damper sensors, if so-equipped. Remove the upper track bar nut and bolt from the top of the axle, and then remove the bolts that secure the control arm to the axle, if so-equipped.

    4

    Remove U-bolts that secure the axle to the leaf springs, if your truck has leaf springs, making sure to keep track of the spacers and washers, noting orientation for later. If your truck came with coil springs, then remove the coil spring-to-axle retaining bolts. Finally, lift the axle slightly with your jack and remove the jack stands, then steady the axle while you carefully lower the jack. Remove the axle.

    5

    Installation is the reverse of removal. Lift the axle up into the truck, and reinstall the spring retainer bolts. Install the control arm and track bar, then the shock absorber through-bolts, vent tube, stabilizer bar and parking brake cable bracket. Install the driveshaft -- using the reference marks you recorded earlier -- and then the brake calipers and brake lines. Again, you should not need to bleed the brakes if you did not disconnect the lines. See the tips sections below for torque specs.

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