1994 Ford F-150 Front Brake Installation

The 1994 Ford F-150 pickup featured single piston calipers and vented rotors. The rotors on a 1994 Ford F-150 had a built-in hub that contained the wheel bearings. The rotors have a minimum thickness stamped on the hub. Every time the brakes are replaced on this vehicle, the rotor must be checked for thickness and the ability to be machined. When the rotor is measured with a dial indicator or micrometer, subtract .040 thousandths from the measurement for machining. If the resulting number is above that on the hub, it can be turned. If the number is less than the minimum on the hub, replace the rotor.

Instructions

1

Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels one complete turn prior to raising the truck, using the lug wrench. Raise the front of the truck, and place jack stands under the frame. Lower the truck so it rests on the stands. Resume the removal of the lug nuts and remove the tires.

2

Loosen the caliper bleeder-screw one turn using a wrench. Pry the caliper piston into its bore using a screwdriver. Place the screwdriver between the rotor and the inside brake pad, and use the brake pad to push the piston into the caliper. Close the bleeder screw.

3

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts using a socket. Lift the caliper off its mounting bracket and remove the brake pads. Suspend the caliper from the coil spring using a piece of wire.

4

Measure the thickness of the rotor contact surface using the dial indicator or micrometer. Subtract .040 thousandths from the result, and compare this figure with the figure stamped on the rotor hub. If the figure is higher than the stamped figure have the rotor machined. If it is lower, purchase a new rotor.

5

Remove the grease cap using the grease cap remover tool. Bend the cotter pin straight, and pull it out of the spindle with the wire cutters. Pull the locking cage off the spindle nut. User the large adjustable pliers to remove the spindle nut.

6

Grab the rotor on two sides and rock it to remove the front washer and bearing. They will fall out, so grab them as they emerge so they dont drop on the ground. Thread the spindle nut on the spindle about four turns clockwise.

7

Grab the rotor and, with a little down pressure, yank the rotor off the spindle. The spindle nut will grab the inboard bearing and seal and leave them hanging on the spindle shaft.

8

Lay the new or machined rotor face down. Pack the bearings with grease. Place the large bearing in the rotor. Install the rear grease seal and tap it in with a hammer. Push the rotor on the spindle. Install the small bearing followed by the washer and the spindle nut.

9

Seat the bearings by tightening the spindle nut using the adjustable pliers. Tighten the nut as much as possible with the pliers. Spin the rotor by hand and loosen the spindle nut one turn. Spin the rotor again and tighten the nut again as much as possible by hand. Loosen the spindle nut a half turn.

10

Install the locking cage over the spindle nut. Install the cotter pin. Install the grease cap and tap it on with a hammer. Install the new brake pads in the caliper. Place the inside pad in the caliper first. It has a set of spring steel clips in the rear of the pad. Push these into the caliper to secure the pad. Install the outside pad by pushing the springs on the pad over the front of the caliper.

11

Lower the caliper over the rotor and align the holes in the caliper with those in the bracket. Spread some anti-seize compound on the caliper bolts and install the bolts. Tighten them to 38 foot-pounds of torque.

12

Install the wheel and tighten the lug nuts with the lug wrench. Lower the truck and tighten the lug nuts to 90 foot-pounds of torque.

13

Open the hood and remove the cap on the master cylinder reservoir. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid as necessary to bring it up to the full mark. Replace the cap. Start the engine and pump the brake pedal slowly 10 times before attempting to move the truck.