How to Replace the Transmission on a 1996 Chevy S10

On many Chevrolet trucks, including the 1996 Chevrolet S10, depending on the engine and transmission configuration, the top engine-to-transmission bolts may be difficult to gain access to and, if you can gain access to them, may be difficult to remove. Standard operating procedure is to raise the body off the frame, but experienced mechanics have devised a way around lifting the body off the transmission.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable and set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Raise the vehicle, using the floor jack and support it with jack stands. Slide the drain pan under the transmission pan. Remove all the bolts except two in one of the corners. Allow the pan to slowly fall -- most of the transmission fluid will drain. Remove the last two bolts and remove the rest of the transmission fluid.

2

Remove the driveshaft from the rear, using the appropriate sockets, then pull it out of the transmission. Remove the shift cable from the transmission control lever and bracket, using a screwdriver and the appropriate socket.

3

Remove the nut and washer that secure the transmission mount to the cross-member. Remove the bolts and washers that secure the mount to the transmission, using the appropriate socket. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifolds, using the appropriate socket.

4

Remove the bolts that secure the converter pan cover to the transmission and remove the cover. Turn the crankshaft until you can see one of the three bolts that secure the torque converter to the flexplate. Remove the bolt. Repeat for the other two bolts.

5

Unbolt the bolt and remove the clip and any straps that secure the three fuel lines and the transmission vent hose to the transmission case. Remove the bolts and the nut that secure the engine to the transmission. If you cannot gain access to the top bolts using a wrench or standard socket, put a long extension on the ratchet, then a universal, the other long extension, the other universal, then a short-well socket. You will be able to reach and remove the upper bolts. If you still do not have room for the tool, jack the engine up a fraction or lower it a fraction. You may have to remove the engine mounts if that is still not enough, but be careful that you don't crush the distributor into the firewall.

6

Remove the oil filler tube and seal from the transmission -- just twist them out. Disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the transmission, using the appropriate line wrench. Plug the lines and the ports in the transmission with shop rags.

7

Unplug the wiring harness connectors from the transmission. Ensure that no other wiring harness connectors, hoses or brackets are in the way to drop the transmission out of the vehicle. Support the rear of the engine with the floor jack, so that it doesn't fall -- the rear of the engine serves as a transmission mount.

8

Pull the transmission rearward far enough to disengage the locator dowel pins on the back of the engine. Lower the transmission from the vehicle, while watching to ensure the torque converter does not fall out. When you get it down far enough, strap a converter holding strap into place to hold the torque converter in -- or remove the torque converter. If you remove it, cover it with shop towels so as not to contaminate it.

9

Ensure that the torque converter is seated in the pump drive. If it is not, the transmission will not bolt all the way up to the engine block. Raise the transmission into place and remove the torque converter holding strap. Slide the transmission forward until it is on the dowel pins. The torque converter should be flush with the flexplate, and you should be able to turn it freely by hand.

10

Install the engine-to-transmission bolts and tighten them to 66 foot-pounds of torque on the 2.2-liter engine. Tighten the bolts to 34 foot-pounds of torque on the 4.3-liter engine. Tighten the torque converter-to-flexplate bolts to 46 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the converter pan cover and tighten the bolts to 37 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the transmission mount bolts and washers. Tighten the bolts to 35 foot-pounds of torque. Tighten the nut and washer that secure the transmission mount to the cross-member to 38 foot-pounds of torque. Install the rest of the parts in reverse order of removal.

11

Fill the transmission with the appropriate type and amount of transmission fluid (Dex/Merc or Dextron IV, depending on your transmission). Refer to your owner's manual for the proper type and amount. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the vehicle and run it through the gears several times. Leave the vehicle running and in "Park." Check the transmission fluid and top off as needed.