How to Remove a Hub Assembly on a 1996 F-150

The base model 1996 Ford F-150 was a two-wheel drive pickup truck, equipped with a 4.9-liter in-line six-cylinder engine. A 5.0-liter was an...

The base model 1996 Ford F-150 was a two-wheel drive pickup truck, equipped with a 4.9-liter in-line six-cylinder engine. A 5.0-liter was an optional engine for the base two-wheel drive 1996 F-150. The front wheel hub on the 1996 F-150 is an integral part of the front brake rotor. The rotor assembly contains the lug studs, as well as the wheel bearings within the rotor body. Removal and replacement of the hub requires replacement of the rotor, and possibly the wheel bearings.

Instructions

    1

    Loosen the front lug nuts on the side that you are going to replace the hub using a tire iron. Raise the front of the F-150 using a 1-ton or greater capacity floor jack. Place jack stands beneath the front frame rails, just inward from the lower control arms. Lower the truck onto the jack stands. Remove the front wheel lug nuts, then remove the front wheel from the truck.

    2

    Insert a small pry bar between the front of the rotor and the brake caliper. Pry the caliper slightly outward to release the pads from the brake rotor. Remove the brake caliper mounting bolts using a ratchet and Allen key socket. Pull the brake caliper upward and off of the brake rotor, using your small pry bar if needed. Hang the caliper from the front coil spring using a metal clothes hanger. Spray the bleeder screw on the caliper with penetrating spray, and allow the penetrating spray to set for no less than 15 minutes.

    3

    Remove the grease hub cap from the center of the brake rotor, using a flat-head screwdriver to pry the cap free. Remove the cotter pin from the wheel hub using pliers and discard the cotter pin. Remove the castellated nut retainer from the nut. Remove the 3/4-inch retaining nut from the spindle shaft using a ratchet and socket. Pull the retaining washer off of the spindle using pliers.

    4

    Remove the center outer bearing cone from the wheel hub using needle nose pliers. Discard the bearing if you are replacing the bearings. Pull the entire rotor assembly free from the spindle by hand. Turn the inboard side of the rotor upward. Remove the inner grease seal from the back of the rotor using a flat-head screwdriver. Remove the inner bearing cone from the rotor with needle nose pliers. Discard it if you are replacing the bearings.

    5

    Remove all of the grease from your bearings using aerosol parts cleaner. Inspect each roller bearing to ensure they are not scored or damaged. Discard and replace both bearings if they are not in perfect condition. Remove the grease from the retaining washer and nut as well as the grease cap. Use a rag to wipe the parts clean if needed.

    6

    Spray the new brake rotor with aerosol parts cleaner thoroughly to remove any traces of the factory installed rust preventing oil. Set the rotor with the outboard side facing downward on the rotor box. Do not set the rotor directly onto a table or the ground. Pack the new bearing with grease. Install the inboard bearing cone into the back of the rotor, then install the grease seal onto the rotor. Tap the grease seal in place with a grease seal driver.

    7

    Set the rotor onto the spindle of the truck. Hold the rotor on the spindle with one hand. Pack the inside of the exposed spindle area with grease. Pack the outer wheel bearing with grease. Insert the outer bearing cone into the center of the rotor hub, on the spindle. Install the outer retaining washer by hand, then turn the retaining nut onto the spindle a few turns by hand. This will ensure proper threading of the nut.

    8

    Tighten the spindle nut onto the spindle with a torque wrench and socket, between 17 and 25 foot-pounds. Rotate the brake rotor counterclockwise while you torque the nut. Back the nut off one-half turn. Tighten the nut between 18 and 25 inch-pounds using a 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench and socket while turning the rotor counterclockwise. Install the retainer and the cotter pin. Bend both cotter pin ends around the retainer with pliers. Install the grease cap and gently tap it in place with a rubber mallet if needed.

    9

    Spray the entire rotor assembly again with aerosol brake parts cleaner. Remove all grease residue, as well as any of your fingerprints from the rotor surfaces. Apply a light coating of grease to the raised outboard face of the rotor, in between each of the lug studs.

    10

    Open the bleeder screw on the caliper by turning it counterclockwise with an open-end wrench. Compress the caliper pistons using channel locks against the inboard brake pad and the rear of the caliper. Tighten the bleeder screw with your open end wrench before you release the brake pad and caliper from your channel locks. Set the caliper and pads onto the new rotor assembly, and tighten the caliper bolts between 22 and 26 foot-pounds, using your 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and Allen key socket to tighten the bolts.

    11

    Install the front wheel onto the truck and tighten the lug nuts snug with your tire iron. Raise the front of the truck off the jack stands, then remove the stands from beneath the truck. Lower the F-150 to the ground. Tighten the lug nuts to 100 foot-pounds in a star-shaped pattern using your 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench and a 13/16-inch wheel nut socket. Proper torquing procedures are essential to eliminating front wheel and brake vibration. Do not overtighten the front wheel lug nuts.

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