How to Remove the Timing Belt in a 1997 Ford Escort

The 1997 Ford Escort has an upgraded 2.0-liter single overhead cam engine. The new engine produces 110 horsepower at 5,000 rpm and 125 pound-feet of torque at 3,750 rpm. The clearances in the 2.0-liter make it an "interference" engine, which means there's a distinct possibility of catastrophic damage to the engine is most likely in the event of a timing belt failure. Its service history suggests the belt be replaced every 60,000 miles.

Instructions

1

Observe all special precautions to avoid accidental damage to the engine. Do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft with the timing belt removed. Only turn the crankshaft in the normal direction of rotation. Do not turn the crankshaft with the belt installed by the camshaft sprocket or any other sprocket. Observe all tightening torques.

2

Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger front wheel one-half turn using the lug wrench. Raise the front of the car with the floor jack. Place a jack stand on either side of the car under the subframe. Lower the car to rest on the stands. Continue to remove the lug nuts from the passenger side wheel and ultimately the wheel itself.

3

Remove the bolts in the inner splash shield behind the wheel using a socket and ratchet. Prepare to remove the serpentine belt that drives the accessories. An automatic tensioner located at the top applies tension to the belt. The belt tensioner has an arrow on the housing and corresponding minimum and maximum marks to the rear. As long as the arrow is between the minimum and maximum marks, the belt is good. If the needle touches or passes the maximum mark, replace the belt -- it has stretched beyond the travel limit of the tensioner.

4

Look for cracks in the grooved bottom section of the belt for any fraying on the sides. Replace it if any exists. From this point on, it would be wise to preflight the engine and all accessories to preclude any expensive surprises in the near future.

5

Look for an illustration of the belt routing on the radiator support shroud. If none exists, make a drawing of the routing to expedite its installation once removed. Place a ratchet in the end of the belt tensioner. Move the tensioner away from the belt and remove the belt. Relax the tensioner and remove the ratchet. Remove the center bolt in the belt tensioner using a socket and ratchet. Remove the tensioner.

6

Remove the bolts in the coolant expansion tank using a socket and ratchet. There is no need to disconnect the hoses, just move them aside. Remove the power steering reservoir with a socket and ratchet, leaving the hoses attached.

7

Place a wood block on the floor jack and place the jack under the oil pan. Raise the jack to support (not lift) the engine. Remove the passenger side engine mount using a socket and ratchet. Remove the mount bracket on the engine.

8

Raise the engine about 2 inches. Remove all the bolts in the timing belt cover using a ratchet and socket. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt using the breaker bar and a socket. Pull off the crankshaft pulley.

9

Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the timing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft are aligned. The crankshaft has a timing mark in the block casting at the 12 oclock position and a notch on the crankshaft sprocket. Both must align. The camshaft sprocket has open spaces between the hub and gear. Between one of the spaces and on the hub you'll find a raised pointer. Align this pointer with an indentation at the 12 oclock position on the cylinder head. If they do not align, the engine is still 180 degrees out, so turn the crankshaft one complete revolution and they will align.

10

Loosen the tensioner bolt using a ratchet and socket. Insert an 8 mm Allen wrench into the hole in the tensioner pulley and turn it one-quarter turn counterclockwise to loosen the tension. Insert a 1/8-inch diameter drill bit into the hole in the tensioner pulley to lock it in place.

11

Prepare to remove the belt by considering whether the belt is to be reused. If so, mark the direction of rotation on the top of the belt. Remove the belt.

12

Check both timing marks for perfect alignment. Install the timing belt in a counterclockwise direction starting with the crankshaft sprocket. Make sure all the tension is on the right side opposite the tensioner.

13

Remove the 1/8-inch diameter drill bit from the tensioner and allow it to operate. Check the alignment marks again. If they are still in position, torque the tensioner bolt to 15 to 22 foot-pounds.

14

Turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise and make sure the alignment marks still align perfectly. If not, loosen the tensioner as before, insert the drill bit and adjust the marks. It will not hurt to turn either one a half a tooth or so. Release the tensioner and rotate the crank again two turns and check the alignment. It must be dead on with this engine.

15

Install the timing belt cover and torque the bolts to 71 to 101 inch-pounds. Install the crankshaft pulley and bolt. Torque the bolt to 81 to 96 foot-pounds. Install the engine mount bracket and torque the bolts to 49 to 69 foot-pounds. Install the engine mount and, using a wrench and a ratchet with a socket, tighten the nut and bolt through the frame bracket and rubber isolator.

16

Install the automatic belt tensioner by positioning it so the alignment pin in the rear of the tensioner engages the hole in the block. This is to keep it from turning. Torque the tensioner bolt 30 to 41 foot-pounds.

17

Install the serpentine belt and use the ratchet on the tensioner to move it away from the belt to finalize installation. Relax the tension and remove the ratchet. Remove the floor jack. Install the inner splash shield. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts to 95 foot-pounds of torque. Lift the car and remove the jack stands. Lower the car.